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P1- Start up the slab, wander a bit right, and then up to a nice ledge with a couple of old bolts for a belay. (40 ft.)
P2- From the belay, up a short face to a ledge then into the corner. Climb up the corner a short distance, clip a bolt out right on the arete, and then head up and right onto the face. Continue to a large ledge at the top. Belay from trees. (50 ft.)
Note: P1 and P2 can easily be linked.
Descent- Walk off. From the top, a trail to climber's left leads up through the brush to the summit proper.
On the South Face. Follow the same approach as for Cracker Jack. From Cracker Jack, continue up along the cliffline to the climber's right and into the woods. You should soon be confronted with a long, steep section of rock and earth. Scramble up this for about 50 feet or so, passing a toppled tree on your left, to level ground at the base of some rock. From here, walk to the left and up the gully a short distance. You should see a relatively clean path up the rock to your right -- this is Two Pitch. There are bolts, but they may be hard to spot. Don't waste your time looking for anything shiny. The bolts are rusted sheet metal hangers on old button head bolts.
Both pitches are "bolted", but the bolts are very old and probably weren't that great to begin with! Take along a light rack for peace of mind, or just don't fall.
|By Rob Dillon|
From: '81 Sunrader
Dec 12, 2012
I used to use this as a downclimb to return to the east face, instead of hiking off the endless switchbacks on the trail.
May 20, 2013
Oldest bolts I've ever seen.....