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Spire Four
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two EX squared 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 360', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Groth
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,679
Submitted By: Dave Groth on Sep 8, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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pitch 3

Description 

NW face of spire #4. Huge wall obvious line to center dihedral thru roof. Start first 10B: pitch below center dihedral, climb face direct(0ne bolt) or shallow left facing corner( 2 varations). Pitch 2 11a: diahedral to roof, stance over the roof. Pitch 3 12a: vears left on to head wall to top of spire.Very well protected with good stances. Hard clibing is well protected.( 5 bolts on head wall)Several attempts with weather & hand drilling. Put on lead.

DG


Protection 

First 2 pitches have gear & bolts, some pinsThree pitch has gear & 6 boltsBolted anchors, well protected, Standard rack5.10b, 5.11a & 5.12a



Photos of two EX squared Slideshow Add Photo
Climbers on the route. Dave Groth, Nate Kuchen & Carl Hungus
Climbers on the route. Dave Groth, Nate Kuchen & C...
pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: pitch 2
pitch 3
pitch 3
Comments on two EX squared Add Comment
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By burlap submariner
Dec 11, 2011

Nice work dave, always looked at this face when I worked for the park around 2002-4. looks like the exact line I would have picked, also cheers for continuing the ground up/drill on lead ethic in the hills.