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Two Bit Shuffle 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 125'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Trainor, Mike Layden 3/91
Season: Nice afternoon shade
Page Views: 140
Submitted By: arjunmh on Apr 3, 2011
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2nd bolt of "Two Bit" should be visible. Clear the...

Description 

From Marty's guide: "Climb up the face past 3 bolts to a ledge. Continue up the face past 1 more bolt into a vertical crack. As the crack splits in two, follow the right crack to its end and then up the face to a 2 bolt belay on the top. 140'. Double line rap. Sm-med cams, stoppers helpful."

I have to add that the gear is not only helpful, it's necessary as there are no bolts above the single one just above the ledge. Also, the pro is pretty bad and it's hard to imagine what Marty meant by going "into the crack" as I did my best to avoid it as it seemed quite sketchy. Pro was mediocre at best, but fortunately the climbing is significantly easier than the 10c feeling face climb to get to the ledge.


Location 

Just to the left of "Summer Assault" in the most wonderful of hidden glens that is located uphill and north of "Adios Larry", "Sublime Line" etc. area. From the start of Sublime go up and around the small block of rock and find the tree filled alley that feels magical. The three bolts on the face below the overhang that you need to clear to get to the ledge should be visible on your left as you get past the last tree. If you think you can stem to the first bolt you've arrived at "Summer Assault", which starts about 20' to the right of this one.


Protection 

I used 2-3 C3s as well as single to 1", perhaps taking two .3 and .4s just in case.



Photos of Two Bit Shuffle Slideshow Add Photo
Arjun on the sporty start to "Two Bit Shuffle"
Arjun on the sporty start to "Two Bit Shuffle"
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