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 ADVANCED
Diminutive Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angry Inch, The T,S 
Draw the Line S,TR 
Exodus S,TR 
f/8 T,S 
Small Potatoes T 
Two-Bit Grit T,S 

Two-Bit Grit 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: J. Baldwin, 1988
Page Views: 547
Submitted By: grk10vq on May 7, 2009

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lycra not mandatory

Description 


E4 6c+

Straight out of Scotland, Two-Bit Grit transcends time, landing you in Yorkshire's Peak District. While you're not climbing gritstone or shale, placements between bolts are shaky, sparse, and don't exactly inspire going for it.

To begin, find some bloke and get a good spot, actually- make sure you get a great spot then proceed to boulder the start (the Wasatch Guide notes the crack on the right as being off, not that it helps). Crimp on a slab-- over nothing-- passing the first bolt to a "rest" at an undercling; fiddle with some small pieces of gear then carry on remembering to breathe. From here move up and left over sketchy territory making sure not to skip any opportunities to place anything! Heading up and slightly left pull off some delicate moves to gain a solid stance. From this point, eye up the head wall, commit to a few awkward moves, and grab a thank-you hold. Clip the last bolt and fire the bouldery top out. A mini-epic~!


Location 


Right of The Angry Inch sits a clean bulging face. Here starts Two-Bit Grit.


Protection 


A semi-automatic Johnny Dawes rope gun, pink and yellow lycra capris, two draws, slings, and gear up to an inch and a half.



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By Darren Knezek
May 10, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This was Baldwin's first climb that he ever put up. He bought a drill bit at IME from Merril Bitter, drove to Ferguson, hiked in, and started to hand drill his first bolt. Next, he broke the drill bit, hiked back out, drove back to IME, bought another drill bit from Merril, drove back and hiked in, finished the first bolt, started to hand drill the second, broke another bit, hiked back out, drove back to IME, bought a second drill bit from Merril, drove back and hiked in, finished the second bolt and cleaned off a lot of the granite grit on a lot of the holds.

All in the same day!

All this prompted the name, Two-Bit Grit.

By zoso
May 10, 2009

Thx Darren. Love to hear route name origins.