Two-Bit Grit  5.11b/c

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 35 feet Consensus:  5.11c [details] FA:  J. Baldwin, 1988 Submitted By:  grk10vq on May 7, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

lycra not mandatory

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Description 

E4 6c+

Straight out of Scotland, Two-Bit Grit transcends time, landing you in Yorkshire's Peak District. While you're not climbing gritstone or shale, placements between bolts are shaky, sparse, and don't exactly inspire going for it.

To begin, find some bloke and get a good spot, actually- make sure you get a great spot then proceed to boulder the start (the Wasatch Guide notes the crack on the right as being off, not that it helps). Crimp on a slab-- over nothing-- passing the first bolt to a "rest" at an undercling; fiddle with some small pieces of gear then carry on remembering to breathe. From here move up and left over sketchy territory making sure not to skip any opportunities to place anything! Heading up and slightly left pull off some delicate moves to gain a solid stance. From this point, eye up the head wall, commit to a few awkward moves, and grab a thank-you hold. Clip the last bolt and fire the bouldery top out. A mini-epic~!

Location 

Right of The Angry Inch sits a clean bulging face. Here starts Two-Bit Grit.

Protection 

A semi-automatic Johnny Dawes rope gun, pink and yellow lycra capris, two draws, slings, and gear up to an inch and a half.