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Located 2 routes to the right of 30 Seconds Over Potash. I believe this is a rarely done route, but it is truly fun and challenging. I would give it 3 stars, but the drilled pins near and at the top of the climb was placed in some awkward spots. Use a #3 or #3.5 in the roof hand/fist crack near the top. Solid 11b route requiring a combination of skills including smears, fine footwork, crimps and jams. The crux is a small bulge about 2/3 of the way up. The key here is definitely footwork.
Combination trad sport, but mostly sport. 5 draws, 2 #3 cams and 1-2 small aliens or equivelent.
|Comments on Twittin Shinkies
|By Eric Odenthal|
Jul 2, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
great moves the whole way. crux at second pin is super techi. Classic! .75 camalot after thrid pin is good to have.