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 ADVANCED
Donnelly Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.10 Corner T 
Ansaid Tower T 
Binou's Crack T 
Chocolate Corner T 
Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe, The T 
Dos Hermanos T 
Drainpipe T 
Elephant Man T 
Fuel Injected Hardbody T 
Generic Crack T 
Half Man, Half Alligator Shark T 
JARNI ZVRAT-KY T 
Let 'er Buck S 
Mr. Peanut T 
Naked and Dead, The T 
Naked and the Dead Variation T 
Ocean Negro T 
Owl Crack T 
Rainbow Sign T 
Sister Skywalker T 
Sleeve of Wizard T 
Thing, The T 
Twitterpated T 
Unknown T 
Unknown 5.10+ (left of Naked and the Dead) T 
Unknown AKA Reclamation T 
Unknown Pod Climb. T 

Twitterpated 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Trevor Bowman, Hayden Kennedy, Planet Kauffman, Alex Stroud 3/28/11
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,077
Submitted By: Neil Kauffman on Apr 7, 2011

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Onsight flight through sweet finger corner.

Description 

A couple off-finger moves and face climbing lead past some softer rock to a shelf, pull past a bulging slot with fists to hands and into the sweet varnished left-facing dihedral above, stem, layback, and fingerlock up this sustained corner with mostly great fingers to a couple tipsy moves and a flared handjam at the anchor. A fine route for the grade, with great stone save for the one soft section at the start; with a bit of traffic this should become a popular line.

Protection 

(1).3 (4).4 (3).5 (2).75 (1)#1,2,new 4 Camalots. Chain anchors.

Location 

On the far right side of the cliff, about 100' or so right of The Thing, but before the obvious Ansaid Tower. Obvious left-facing corner in dark varnish. There's a plaque.


Photos of Twitterpated Slideshow Add Photo
The wide slot.
The wide slot.
Hayden cleaning up the anchor. Planet Kauffman milling around.
Hayden cleaning up the anchor. Planet Kauffman mil...

Comments on Twitterpated Add Comment
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By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
Apr 8, 2011

gee, thanks for all the info!