Twitterpated  5.11

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Type:  Trad, 70 feet Consensus:  5.11c [details] FA:  Trevor Bowman, Hayden Kennedy, Planet Kauffman, Alex Stroud 3/28/11 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Neil Kauffman on Apr 7, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Onsight flight through sweet finger corner.

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Description 

A couple off-finger moves and face climbing lead past some softer rock to a shelf, pull past a bulging slot with fists to hands and into the sweet varnished left-facing dihedral above, stem, layback, and fingerlock up this sustained corner with mostly great fingers to a couple tipsy moves and a flared handjam at the anchor. A fine route for the grade, with great stone save for the one soft section at the start; with a bit of traffic this should become a popular line.

Protection 

(1).3 (4).4 (3).5 (2).75 (1)#1,2,new 4 Camalots. Chain anchors.

Location 

On the far right side of the cliff, about 100' or so right of The Thing, but before the obvious Ansaid Tower. Obvious left-facing corner in dark varnish. There's a plaque.

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The wide slot.

Hayden cleaning up the anchor. Planet Kauffman mil...