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Onsight flight through sweet finger corner.
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
A couple off-finger moves and face climbing lead past some softer rock to a shelf, pull past a bulging slot with fists to hands and into the sweet varnished left-facing dihedral above, stem, layback, and fingerlock up this sustained corner with mostly great fingers to a couple tipsy moves and a flared handjam at the anchor. A fine route for the grade, with great stone save for the one soft section at the start; with a bit of traffic this should become a popular line.
(1).3 (4).4 (3).5 (2).75 (1)#1,2,new 4 Camalots. Chain anchors.
On the far right side of the cliff, about 100' or so right of The Thing, but before the obvious Ansaid Tower. Obvious left-facing corner in dark varnish. There's a plaque.
Hayden cleaning up the anchor. Planet Kauffman mil...
By Jay 1975
Apr 8, 2011
gee, thanks for all the info!
Jun 5, 2015
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
I thought it was a good line. There was abosolutly no chalk on it when I got there today. It felt like 11. The guidebook has it at 11+ as does the plaque.When the sand clears out it will be even better.