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Twitterpated 
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Twitterpated 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type: Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Trevor Bowman, Hayden Kennedy, Planet Kauffman, Alex Stroud 3/28/11
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 931
Submitted By: Neil Kauffman on Apr 7, 2011
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Onsight flight through sweet finger corner.

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Description 

A couple off-finger moves and face climbing lead past some softer rock to a shelf, pull past a bulging slot with fists to hands and into the sweet varnished left-facing dihedral above, stem, layback, and fingerlock up this sustained corner with mostly great fingers to a couple tipsy moves and a flared handjam at the anchor. A fine route for the grade, with great stone save for the one soft section at the start; with a bit of traffic this should become a popular line.


Protection 

(1).3 (4).4 (3).5 (2).75 (1)#1,2,new 4 Camalots. Chain anchors.


Location 

On the far right side of the cliff, about 100' or so right of The Thing, but before the obvious Ansaid Tower. Obvious left-facing corner in dark varnish. There's a plaque.



Photos of Twitterpated Slideshow Add Photo
The wide slot.
The wide slot.
Hayden cleaning up the anchor. Planet Kauffman milling around.
Hayden cleaning up the anchor. Planet Kauffman mil...
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By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
Apr 8, 2011

gee, thanks for all the info!