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Routes in Home on the Range Rock (temporary name)
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Blank Page of Profound Memories S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Coyote Pretty S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hey Jerk, Nice Car T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Home on the Range T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Let It Fly, Nathan S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Prune Line T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Twistor TR V10 7C+ |
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Unknown 4 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown 1 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Unknown 2 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown 3 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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When the Master Calls the Roll T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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| Type: | TR, Boulder, 20 ft (6 m) |
| FA: | Justin Edl |
| Page Views: | 1,682 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | JNE on Sep 20, 2015 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
This is a classic Vedauwoo flared hands testpiece on a gorgeous overhanging wall.
Start on two obvious horizontal finger slots about a foot apart. A few flowing moves on slopers, jugs, and pinches lead one to the base of the horrible flared crack. The sequence that follows feels like pure levitation magic.
The name is from the wall around the climb, which due to the pattern of raised black stripes and water streaks of lichen looks like an artist's rendition of interactant light cones. It also happens to be an accurate descriptor for the crux moves on this climb.
Start on two obvious horizontal finger slots about a foot apart. A few flowing moves on slopers, jugs, and pinches lead one to the base of the horrible flared crack. The sequence that follows feels like pure levitation magic.
The name is from the wall around the climb, which due to the pattern of raised black stripes and water streaks of lichen looks like an artist's rendition of interactant light cones. It also happens to be an accurate descriptor for the crux moves on this climb.
Location
This is on the same formation as Home On The Range, just way over to the right on the other side of the dome from HOTR. The formation has a series of parallel left to right rising cracks that run all the way through the formation, and the wall on the right side of the dome which is parallel with these cracks is overhanging at that angle and contains this climb.
Protection
The landing is quite bad on this one and basically nonexistent for the topout. As a result, I opted to dial it on TR and then boulder it. If doing this as a pure boulder, be extremely careful on the topout. I don't think you could safely fall from there, and the climbing is sequential, crunched up, and involves a bit of careful balance getting onto the slab right over the lip. This could also be done just as a TR, or as a short lead. For the anchor, bring a #2 and #0.5 Friend or equivalent plus some sling/cord.
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