This T-Wall classic is touted by some as "one of the best sport routes in the South" (which may depend on whether you consider Kentucky to be a southern state). Nevertheless, it is certainly one of the best at T-Wall, and a must-do if you have what it takes. The climb is marred by a short band of flaky rock, and a couple no-hands rests, but its extreme angle make it stand out among the many roof-capped slabs.
Begin with a tough boulder problem of precise dynos to surmount the first roof. Recover on the pocketed slab while psyching up for the steep roof finish. Thankfully, the final roof is adorned with large jugs, but you'll have to keep the pump in check and might need to make a couple big throws.
The anchors are in an awkward spot, so you might want to down-climb and lower off the last bolt. This route often has draws on it.
In the Ampitheater, this is the third route and second sport route right of the waterfall. Begin in a left-facing dihedral with a big pocket.
Bolts, often with fixed draws. Stick clipping isn't a bad idea as the hardest moves are close to the ground.
Apr 13, 2008
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
Warning: spoiler....2 no hands rests (kinda) if you've got the suss...hard boulder start, hard boulder finish, lots of meat and potatoes in betwixt---would you have it any other way?
|By Peter Winter|
Jan 29, 2010
1 for sure no hander in the obvious spot. This thing needs fixed draws as it is a real bitch clean. Great route.
|By Stone Brew|
From: Chattanooga, TN
Mar 19, 2012
If you can climb it, you should be able to clean it
|By Blake Allen Green|
May 14, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
There are currently a couple of biners on quicklinks on two of the bolts on the route. Clip the climber end rope into these on the way down to use as directionals and cleaning becomes much easier. Or just TR it for fun. Or make your friend second it. It could use some quicklinks on the anchor to lower off of instead of the chain links.