|Type:||Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, 1000', Grade IV|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a A2 [details]|
|FA:||Robert Warren and Bob Bernholtz, FFA: Josh Wharton, Zach Smith|
|Submitted By:||Greg Cameron on Oct 25, 2003|
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By chris Kalous
May 13, 2010
Updated Info: All free version. 5.12-
FFA: Josh Wharton, Zach Smith.
P1: 1.5 pitches of Journey Home. To the ledge with the big boulder in the corner. (This will skip the start of pitch 2 described above.)
P2: Move left on the ledge/flake. Lieback up wide flake. 5.9. Encounter the "Twisted Flake": a large, detached flake. There is good gear to the right and the moves are easy but tread lightly. Move up through two good bolts. 5.11. Slightly runout 5.9 gets to a leaning ledge. 130'.
P3: 5.10 moves to a right-leaning crack system to a ledge. 100'.
P4: A thin dihedral. Start on a ledge to the right. Step into burly stemming with some good fixed gear. Exit out the top to the right. Belay just above a small roof. 5.12-. 100'.
P5: Head up dihedral to peg. 5.10+. Clip a fixed nut and climb up then left near the top of the dihedral. Face climb up and leftish, then back right to a ledge. 5.11, 140'.
P6: A short 5.11- move gets to easier climbing. Connect a few dihedrals. Belay on a sloping stance under rotten looking finger cracks. 80'.
P7: Hard pulling on slightly dirty fingers gets to sloppy climbing in peg. 5.11. Climb up to and traverse a rotten roof on hands. 5.11-. Continue up grovelly climbing until you feel like stopping. 150'.
P8: Finish on easy ground to walk off ledge where Journey Home ends. 70' or so.
You can probably combine the last three pitches into two.
The first four pitches are stellar. The last three or four are a little more typical Black. 3 stars.
Add this to Dylan Wall for a longer day.
By seth c
Nov 5, 2010
|Chris' description is right on. We combined pitch six and seven and belayed right below the rotton hands roof crack. Then we linked the roof crack into the next pitch. Overall, a fantastic route.|
By David Rasmussen
Apr 12, 2011
Pitch 5 is a little spicy - clip the fixed nut then down climb a few moves to traverse.
Bring the big gear, youll be happy you have it....
By Jay 1975
Apr 23, 2011
|Pretty classic Black route! Usual thin, space out, tips corner crux with stemming.|