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|Type: ||Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV|
|Consensus: ||5.11d A2 [details]|
|FA: ||Robert Warren and Bob Bernholtz, FFA: Josh Wharton, Zach Smith|
|Submitted By: ||Greg Cameron on Oct 25, 2003|
BETA PHOTO: Topo for Twisted.
Twisted is one of the lesser known routes up the North Chasm View Wall. It is also not very well described in the Black Canyon Rock Climbs guide. Pike Howard and I did this in 2003 and spent a fair bit of time figuring out where to go. We hope this helps.
P1). Ascend the first pitch of Journey Home (5.9), adequately described on this site and in the guidebook.
P2). (150 feet). Walk left a bit along the large belay ledge. Looking up, you will see the bottom part of a huge flake (it doesn't look that huge until you actually get into it). Face climb up and left until you can get your fingers in the crack, and then undercling and lieback left around the bottom of the flake (5.10, scary). Continue up the left side of the flake (5.9+, wide) to its end and then face climb up and left past two bolts (5.11b/c) to a stance next to a (somewhat loose) block on a ledge.
P3). Face climb straight right (5.10) and then ascend a crack to a ledge.
P4). Ascend the straight-in thin crack (5.12a or 5.11/A2) for about 50 feet then exit up and right on face moves (5.10+) to a ramp. Follow the ramp up and right to a ledge below a right-facing dihedral. I describe this as 5.12a, as that's what Pike suggested after working hard to free it on the lead.
P5). Stem the somewhat dirty right-facing corner (5.11a) to a ledge.
P6). Face climb up and then left (5.10+, scary - particularly for the follower), well beneath the roofs that loom above you, to a ledge, and then work back up and right on face moves to gain access to easier ground above the roofs. Belay at a ledge. Note that the guidebook indicates some aid on this pitch and shows that the pitch ends at the top of a huge terrace. Somehow, a pitch was lost or something, because this pitch goes free at a relatively moderate grade and, at the end of it, you are still a pitch away from the terrace.
P7). At this point, you are at the bottom of a corner system. It was getting late for us, and we elected to traverse quite a ways right and eventually join up with Journey Home. I can't remember what the corner looked like, exactly, but my recollection is that this pitch would be at least 5.11.
P8). Continue up the last real pitch of Journey Home to gain the huge terrace. Walk tens of yards left along the terrace and find an easy crack to exit to the top.
Standard rack - bring RPs for the 4th pitch, and 2 #4 Camalots for the 2nd.
Rob Van Aernum contemplating the crux corner.
RVA on the first real pitch of Twisted- headed tow...
RVA sending the crux on-sight.
|By chris Kalous|
May 13, 2010
Updated Info: All free version. 5.12-
FFA: Josh Wharton, Zach Smith.
P1: 1.5 pitches of Journey Home. To the ledge with the big boulder in the corner. (This will skip the start of pitch 2 described above.)
P2: Move left on the ledge/flake. Lieback up wide flake. 5.9. Encounter the "Twisted Flake": a large, detached flake. There is good gear to the right and the moves are easy but tread lightly. Move up through two good bolts. 5.11. Slightly runout 5.9 gets to a leaning ledge. 130'.
P3: 5.10 moves to a right-leaning crack system to a ledge. 100'.
P4: A thin dihedral. Start on a ledge to the right. Step into burly stemming with some good fixed gear. Exit out the top to the right. Belay just above a small roof. 5.12-. 100'.
P5: Head up dihedral to peg. 5.10+. Clip a fixed nut and climb up then left near the top of the dihedral. Face climb up and leftish, then back right to a ledge. 5.11, 140'.
P6: A short 5.11- move gets to easier climbing. Connect a few dihedrals. Belay on a sloping stance under rotten looking finger cracks. 80'.
P7: Hard pulling on slightly dirty fingers gets to sloppy climbing in peg. 5.11. Climb up to and traverse a rotten roof on hands. 5.11-. Continue up grovelly climbing until you feel like stopping. 150'.
P8: Finish on easy ground to walk off ledge where Journey Home ends. 70' or so.
You can probably combine the last three pitches into two.
The first four pitches are stellar. The last three or four are a little more typical Black. 3 stars.
Add this to Dylan Wall for a longer day.
|By seth c|
Nov 5, 2010
Chris' description is right on. We combined pitch six and seven and belayed right below the rotton hands roof crack. Then we linked the roof crack into the next pitch. Overall, a fantastic route.
|By David Rasmussen|
Apr 12, 2011
Pitch 5 is a little spicy - clip the fixed nut then down climb a few moves to traverse.
Bring the big gear, you’ll be happy you have it....
|By Jay Brown|
Apr 23, 2011
Pretty classic Black route! Usual thin, space out, tips corner crux with stemming.