Upside-down climbing through a 20-foot roof 100 feet off the deck makes this new route (August 2010) one of the most exciting 13a's in a canyon filled with awesome 13a's.
Climb "Brothers Carrutherzov" to the ledge before the traverse. Make the first exciting step right on that route, then blast straight up through the tiered overhangs, heading for the prominent groove through the middle of the big roof. The crux is starting that roof.
If you clip the anchors, the rope runs at a pretty harsh angle over the lip; it seemed better to down-jump, which is a whole lot of fun anyway. The anchors are where they should be, however — it would be a travesty to not turn the lip. Perhaps we should hang a bell at the finish — mandating a bell-ring and a down-jump for a proper send? No clip-able anchors, just a bell and a loop of slack dangling through space under your feet to the last bolt, which is out of sight. Ha. Or not.
Follows "Brothers Carrutherzov" to the rightward traverse and goes straight up.
A 70-meter rope is a good idea, though I had rope to spare, so maybe you could get off with 62 meters or something.
Quickdraws: I think Andrew left the route equipped, but if not, you would probably need about 16-18 draws, with 5-6 of them being long runners.
Most people will likely use two kneepads, though the right one is the only one that seems kind of necessary.
|By William Mondragon|
From: My car
Jun 19, 2014
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
I thought this was a spectacular route. Great job, Andrew.