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Twisted Memories 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 216
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Oct 1, 2011

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Kip Henrie starting the roof.
Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A strenuous, exciting roof, followed by some uneasy struggling through small holds to briefly easier terrain, followed by a difficult, hard-to-read section just before the chains.

Start up on light-colored slabby terrain for two bolts under the dark-colored, intimidating roof. The third bolt is under the roof and difficult to see from the ground.

Figure out the roof and head onto steep, tan limestone on smallish holds.

A respite follows for a bolt or two, and then a bit of head-scratching confusion follows while fighting the pump before the chains.


Location 

After arriving at the east-facing wall at the top of the trail, turn right and walk along the base of the wall. Continue around the point (passing Long Shadows on the west side of the blunt arete at the point).

Follow the trail, passing darker-colored, lower-angled rock, then lighter-colored rock containing a broken, angled roof midway up (there are several bolted routes on the lighter-colored rock; the most visible bolt is in a bluish waterstreak).

After a left-facing corner is a tall, narrow wall with a dark-colored roof in the middle. There are two bolted routes on this wall. Twisted Memories is the left routes and climbs directly through the roof. Mind Stream is the right route; the top anchors are shared by the two lines.


Protection 

8 bolts and chain anchors (shared with the line to the right).



Photos of Twisted Memories Slideshow Add Photo
Jon Scoville near the top.
Jon Scoville near the top.
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