Twist and Shout
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This is a great, short route that can be found almost at the top of the access gully that is found on the left hand side of the Sand Dunes Crag. In 70 feet, it combines a little bit of slab and crack climbing, past 4 fixed pins. Take a little bit of medium sized gear along too so the run-out is not so bad. To start, look for a fixed pin at the base of a right facing, arching dihedral. To your right will be a route called Little Miss Demeaner, which is 5.10-. So, Twist and Shout should look a little easier to climb.
Work your way up the opening moves, using the dihedral for some holds, until you encounter a slabby crux that forces you a bit out on the face. Great climbing continues to the top.
This route is the last one that is encountered as you ascend the approach gully, which is located on the left hand side of the Sand Dunes crag. It is on your right, almost at the top of the gully. Look for a fixed pin that is about 10' off the deck.
Mostly quickly draws will be all you need, but take a bit of medium sized gear too, if you want to cut down on the run-out between the fixed gear.
Mar 29, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
This was a fun route, but not exactly "sport". Placed a cam to protect the belayer/start (i.e. if I bailed before the first pin), and a nut above the first pin. Also, thought the crux was definitely tough for the grade, assuming you are meant to stay generally in the pin line. Finally, anchors weren't where I expected - they were up and left, away from the line of the pins. Topped out and found them. So - very fun and engaging climb, but not your usual "sport" line.