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Super Hits - Bloody Fingers
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bloody Fingers T 
Chimney T 
Double Vision T,S 
Mystery Achievement S 
New Toy S 
Twist and Crawl T 

Twist and Crawl 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Stroud, Goodwin
Page Views: 2,546
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 4, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (89)
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High up on the route and well above the surroundin...

Description 

This route follows the arete to the right of Bloody Fingers and New Toy. The first bolt is about 25-30ft up. Bolts have been added, since the FA.

Start either in the chimney to the left, or the face below the first bolt. Follow a handful full of bolts to a crack (wires) and finish at a bolt anchor.

Rap with 2 ropes or tarverse to the top of B.F.

Protection 

Draws, and a few wires


Photos of Twist and Crawl Slideshow Add Photo
Almost up to the crack on Twist and Crawl
Almost up to the crack on Twist and Crawl
Bloody Fingers area w/o lines.
BETA PHOTO: Bloody Fingers area w/o lines.
twist and crawl 5.8R ****
twist and crawl 5.8R ****
1) Bloody Fingers <br />2) New Toy <br />3) Twist and Crawl
BETA PHOTO: 1) Bloody Fingers
2) New Toy
3) Twist and Crawl

Comments on Twist and Crawl Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 27, 2014
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 4, 2005

GREAT ROUTE FOR THE GRADE!!! if you don't like the easy runout start, protect it in the chimney with a #4 Camalot, and swing out onto the arete! Don't miss this one!!
By Nathan Fisher
Sep 5, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Agreed with a don't miss this one comment. Runout easy beginning, followed by fun airy arete climbing and a nice crack finish. A 70-meter rope will work for the lower/rappel, if you are careful.
By Jason Billings
From: Draper, UT
Sep 27, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

We where able to sling shot this with a 70M rope, but just barely. Have a knot in the end of your rope, or better yet, have your belayer tie in.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 1, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Like an idiot who didn't know the area, I cast off on this with just draws and no trad gear. I was happy that the top third of this had such nice fingerlocks, because there is no gear! Don't forget that rack to 1"!
By sgreen
From: salt lake city, ut
May 13, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

definitely take cams for the top crack, it's splitter. Nuts work but you have to fiddle a bit with them.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 14, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

As stated in the description the first bolt is about 25 feet up. From there you follow a well protected bolt line of 6 bolts until you meet with a short crack before the summit. The hand-crack above can be protected using 1" cams or just climb through. Chain anchors.
By rth
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 14, 2009

This was a classic climb. Loved it. The opening run-out will make sure you are awake. A 60 meter can make this happen and I'll tell you how. If you can't handle the run out start then you can't handle the down climb needed from the wrap down. Your 60 will put you on the ramp to the right of the climb.

Awesome run-out to keep misfits of the route.
By Blitzo
Aug 23, 2010

I thought it was a fun lead. I disagree with the R rating. I don't remember it having 6 bolts when I did it, but that was 20 years ago.
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 21, 2012

You can rap this from the anchor easy enough if you trend west onto the ramp. Will deposit you right in front of a crack on a ramp that is easy to protect if you wish while you are fiddling with pulling down the rope. Then is an easy down climb.

To top rope (with a 60) it is best to build an anchor right below the final roof, then when ready to go home last climber climbs up past the anchor and raps.
Or yes easy to rap from Bloody Fingers (if the route is empty! and it is popular). This is also a good descent route for Protuding Dyke rather than down the standard down climb which I have never done but people there were complaining about it.

I don't remember there being any run outs on this route at all other than getting to the first bolt which is easy. Just don't forget to bring pro for the final crack section which is not all that obvious from bottom.
Awesome climb which will keep your average 5.8 leader happy and thinking.
By dave bingham
Jun 17, 2013

A fun route that would be better with a bolted direct start so you don't have to grovel up the chimney.
By Matt Schroer
From: Logan, Utah
Jun 23, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A fun, mixed gear arete. Take a light rack of small cams for the upper splitter. Does not deserve the R rating.
By S.Lee
Jul 3, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

My first ever time placing trad gear on lead. Dont remember it being particularly run out...
By Trevor.
Sep 4, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

The first bolt is probably 30 or so feet off the ground, but it is easy(5.6ish) climbing to get to it. Not worthy of an R rating IMO, but definitely don't fall off up there!
By idahomike
Apr 27, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route is a great 5.8. Start in the chimney, work your way up the steep part with great holds, and then make your way onto the slabby upper section with lots of fun friction moves. The upper crack protects well.