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Middle Class Wall
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Eye In Overtime 
Black Eye In The Sky 
Blue Collar Baby 
Goin' Streakin' 
Lichenback 
Mass Appeal 
Middle Class Cracker 
Middle Management 
Overtime 
Streaky Stylee 
Twinkletoes 
Unsorted Routes:

Twinkletoes 

5.12d

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Consensus: 5.12d [details]
FA: Beavers
Submitted By: beavs on Jun 24, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

5 bolts of easy climbing lead up and left to the middle ledge (use long draws). A hard first move off the ledge is followed by hard sustained climbing and the crux sequence through the last 2 bolts. Originally graded 12c (which I'll admit was a sandbag) then bumped up to 13a. Seems to be settling in at 12d, but you be the judge.


Location 

The 1st route right of Middle Class Cracker follows the leftmost of the 3 black streaks on the obvious overhanging headwall (see photo on the Middle Class page).


Protection 

11 bolts to chains.



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By Rob Bailey
Jun 29, 2010
rating: 5.12d

Five clips of pure bliss. Sustained, powerfull, two moderate rests, big moves, all business, cruxy middle section, and a dyno for dessert. Who could ask for anything more. Thank you, Beavs. It seems to be hard 12d to me. Not quite 13a, but definitely not 12c.