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Twinkle Toes Traverse
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British
Avg: 2.4 from 14 votes
Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Seth Boatright, Chuck Richards, 1972 |
Page Views: | 3,411 total · 26/month |
Shared By: | rhyang on Apr 7, 2013 · Updates |
Admins: | andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Always check this web page before you visit for current conditions and nesting closures:
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: due to nesting condors the Machete Ridge area may be closed, from Dos Equis / Corona on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original. Check the NPS and Friends of Pinnacles websites for further information.
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: due to nesting condors the Machete Ridge area may be closed, from Dos Equis / Corona on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original. Check the NPS and Friends of Pinnacles websites for further information.
Description
p1: Climb up the face just to the right of a right-facing corner, protected by two bolts. Place a piece before things get too hard, and then step up and left out of the corner onto the face. Don't make the mistake of going all the way up the corner. Head up the face to a bolted anchor.
p2: Traverse up and left, passing four bolts, one of which is a barn door handle ("70's climbing humor"). Head up into another shallow corner to a bolted anchor.
p2: Traverse up and left, passing four bolts, one of which is a barn door handle ("70's climbing humor"). Head up into another shallow corner to a bolted anchor.
Location
The route starts about 30 feet to the left of Dos Equis, near an oak tree.
Descent: scramble third class down and left to the anchor for Bandits in Bondage and rappel -- two ropes required (50m will suffice). Might be good to carry approach shoes for the walk back up to the start of the route if you left a pack there.
Descent: scramble third class down and left to the anchor for Bandits in Bondage and rappel -- two ropes required (50m will suffice). Might be good to carry approach shoes for the walk back up to the start of the route if you left a pack there.
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