Twinkie  5.6

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Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 20 feet Consensus:  5.6 [details] FA:  Submitted By:  dragons on May 26, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: To climb "Twinkie", go up the middle of the promin...

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Description 

I believe the crux is getting off the ground. The block where you start is very slightly overhanging and is weirdly sheared and smooth, although covered in small features. I found I couldn't get up it - no good footholds and precious few handholds (crimps).

I wound up going further left and climbing up a 5 foot, rectangular block that was sticking out of the main block and going straight up from there.

I find it hard to believe this is really a 5.6, which is the grade given in Boston Rocks.

Location 

I found this route in Boston Rocks 2nd ed., p. 107. There are no details except for a sketch. If you believe the sketch, you start this route at the left of Snacktime Crag. Find the large block about 10 feet below a 6-inch wide horizontal crack. Go up the middle of the block, cross the crack, then keep going straight up to top out.

Protection 

Top rope. Trees that are about 15-20 feet back from the edge can be used as anchors.