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Phantasia
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Twinkie 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Porter Jarrard, Chris Snyder - 1992
Page Views: 17,584
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 31, 2008

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Curtis Mesmer gets pumped.

Description 

One of the most popular 5.12a's at the Red, Twinkie is an excellent route with two distinct personalities: yellow & spongey at first, followed by a white creamy center. And just like the Hostess version, it helps to be well-rounded to enjoy this treat.

Begin with a reachy boulder problem to gain the slab. Easy moves between slopey pockets leads to a gnarly little slab crux involving a sharp 1/4" crimp and a sidepull mono. Above this a series of jugs lead to a great rest below the intimidating overhang. Follow massive jugs up the steep wall to a difficult move getting to the 3rd bolt on the overhanging, then more jugs to the redpoint crux: one not-so great pinch just before reaching the arete. A sit-down rest provides one last breather before the sprint to the anchor on more enormous jugs.

Location 

Twinkie climbs the left-most line on the massive overhang on the right end of the Phantasia cliff. It begins a few eet left of Phantasia.

Protection 

~11 bolts, 2BA


Photos of Twinkie Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Zeb on a relaxed onsight of Twinkie...
Zeb on a relaxed onsight of Twinkie...
Rock Climbing Photo: To Boink or not to Boink, that is the question. Ma...
To Boink or not to Boink, that is the question. Ma...
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy Hansen on route, Matt Spellman on belay. Marc...
Andy Hansen on route, Matt Spellman on belay. Marc...
Rock Climbing Photo: Randy on Twinkie
Randy on Twinkie
Rock Climbing Photo: lily
lily
Rock Climbing Photo: 5/28/94
5/28/94
Rock Climbing Photo: The tricky start.
The tricky start.
Rock Climbing Photo: domonique climbing toward the big bad roof...
domonique climbing toward the big bad roof...
Rock Climbing Photo: twinkie
twinkie
Rock Climbing Photo: Randy almost to the rest on Twinkie
Randy almost to the rest on Twinkie
Rock Climbing Photo: The slab of Twinkie, prob. 5.10c?
The slab of Twinkie, prob. 5.10c?
Rock Climbing Photo: Kelsey Gray hurries to make a few moves before the...
Kelsey Gray hurries to make a few moves before the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lily teching through the start
Lily teching through the start
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving up and out on "Twinkie".
Moving up and out on "Twinkie".
Rock Climbing Photo: awesome 5.12a
awesome 5.12a
Rock Climbing Photo: twinkie
twinkie
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason McGavin on Twinkie
Jason McGavin on Twinkie
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on Twinkie
Me on Twinkie
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving fast up Twinkie.  Photo by, Liam Griffin
Moving fast up Twinkie. Photo by, Liam Griffin
Rock Climbing Photo: No hands rest
No hands rest
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Barb Anderson
Photo by Barb Anderson
Rock Climbing Photo: Twinkie, 5.12a, on the left.
Twinkie, 5.12a, on the left.

Comments on Twinkie Add Comment
Show which comments
By DisturbingThePeace
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Oct 28, 2009

The bottom of this and Phantasia seep pretty badly in a good rain. So while you are sheltered from the rain the starting slab might be pretty wet. So don't plan on these for a rainy day.
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Nov 23, 2009

i was really looking forward to copping such an iconic rest, but i was very disappointed once i actually sat in it. sitting in the slot is so insecure! i had arm bar/handjam/pinch with my right hand to keep me from sliding out of the slot. i found that double knee bars work much better. either way, what a crazy feature!
By Eric Godfrey
From: slc, ut
Nov 8, 2010

CLASSIC! A victory whip should be mandatory on this thing. Belayer, give lots of slack at the end! :)
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Nov 14, 2011

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 12, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Super fun route- pita to clean, though. For those who havent been here in awhile, the chain draws are long gone, meaning cleaning shenanigans are required.

No sit down rest on this thing, but a decent one awaits you at the upper break if you're clever.
By Will Sweeney
From: Zachariah, Kentucky
May 6, 2013

Be sure not to miss the surprise hidden at the rest. May just give the extra moral needed to finish this excellent rig when your forearms are flaming! No need to use the nasty mono and micro crimp for the slab crux either. Its a 10c move at best with good beta.
By jarthur
From: Westminster, CO
Aug 8, 2013

It's not a sitdown rest, but if you're short you can get a laydown rest before the last 10 feet of climbing. The shorter you are the better it will fit your body. Probably better to just punch it to the top, or you could go for a bat hang that works pretty well.
By Alex Zucca
From: University Heights
May 23, 2016

Have a plan of attack on how you are going to clean this before getting on it. I wish I did. Amazing climb nonetheless.
By BrianWS
May 24, 2016
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This route is a pain to clean, and has resulted in significant injury from a large pendulum into a nearby tree.
Although this is forest service land, there is usually a biner left at the base of the roof or one bolt into it. Cleaning on lower is much safer if you use the biner as a directional - if it's still there, resist the urge to booty it. If it isn't, consider leaving a discrete biner of your own. If the forest service ban on fixed gear is to be taken very seriously, some creative use of a stick clip may be needed to get your gear back whilst staying close the he wall.
If you have a second who is capable of following the route, this is also a good option. It's a bitch to get them back on the route if they fall - taking is a better option than going for it if you want your gear back.

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