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Twin Sisters

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North Twin Sister 

Twin Sisters Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: grk10vq, WAGbag, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matt Schroer on Mar 20, 2013
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The Twin Sisters are without a doubt the most spectacular formations found within the City of Rocks National Reserve, and they deserve mention, as the history here is abundant, both culturally and within the climbing community. Unfortunately for climbers, all climbing activities on the sisters have been banned since 2000, when a court decision decided to uphold the NPS's closure under the reserve's comprehensive management plan.

The Twin Sisters are two dramatic granite spires that mark the high points of a mile-long rock ridge that is separated from the rest of the reserve by about 2 miles. The north spire (~500 feet tall) is composed of the 28 million year old Almo Pluton granite, while the south spire (~600 feet tall) is comprised of the 2.5 billion year old Green Creek Complex granite and represents some of the oldest exposed rock on the continent.

The cultural history of the Twin Sisters is rich. Between 1843 and 1882, nearly 250,000 immigrants traveled through City of Rocks on the California Trail, using the Twin Sisters as a major landmark on their journey. Prior to receiving their current name in 1848, immigrant journals mentioned the formations under various names, including "Steeple Rocks", "Twin Mounds", "Twin Buttes", "Two Dome Mountain", and others. Inconclusive ethnographic information also hints at the formations being of important spiritual value to the area's Native American groups.

The earliest known climbing ascents on the Twin Sisters were completed in the 1960's by the renowned and visionary Lowe party, which included Greg, Jeff, and George Lowe. The Twin Sisters house some of the longest and highest quality rock in the City of Rocks, ranging from historical, Yosemite-esque crack lines to highly technical face routes. I invite others with more (personal) knowledge of these routes to add them here 1) for future reference, in case the climbing ban is ever lifted and 2) for posterity's sake, as I, for one, enjoy following the early history of North American climbing.

"City of Rocks, Idaho: A Climbers Guide" by David Bingham, 2009
"Administrative History: Twin Sisters" Department of the Interior, National Park Service, Pacific West Region, 2011
"Etched in Stone: The Geology of City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park, Idaho" by Kevin R. Pogue, 2008

Getting There 

The Twin Sisters are impossible to miss and are visible from many vantage points within the reserve. From the main City of Rocks dirt road, take the westward dirt road at the split that occurs just north of Register Rock.

Climbing Season

For the City of Rocks area.

Weather station 14.6 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Twin Sisters

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Twin Sisters:
The Lowe Route   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   North Twin Sister
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Twin Sisters

Featured Route For Twin Sisters

Safecracker 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  ID : City of Rocks : ... : North Twin Sister
Note: This description is for the historical record only. All information contained within is likely outdated and inaccurate. Many, if not all, bolts have been removed from the Twin Sisters formations and climbing on them is illegal. Do not attempt to climb these routes for your own safety and compliance with the law!Enjoyable, sustained face climbing. This was the only route on the wall that was fully bolt-protected. Unfortunately, it encroached upon its far more stimulating neighbor (Sa...[more]   Browse More Classics in ID

Photos of Twin Sisters Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Twin Sisters in late afternoon.  June 2011.
Twin Sisters in late afternoon. June 2011.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Twin Sisters. South Twin Sister is on the left...
The Twin Sisters. South Twin Sister is on the left...
Rock Climbing Photo: Twin Sisters from the north.
Twin Sisters from the north.
Rock Climbing Photo: It's illegal to climb these...
It's illegal to climb these...

Comments on Twin Sisters Add Comment
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By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 3, 2015
This description reads like straight-up plagiarism from the Bingham book. Seriously?
By Brian Scoggins
From: Boise, ID
Apr 3, 2015
I just checked. While it does paraphrase the bit about the mile-long ridge, and has a similar topic sentence to the 2009 edition, the similarities end there. Its actually much more robust than Bingham's bit. I'm certain that if it was too similar, Bingham (who is quite active on here) would've brought it to the admin's attention.
By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 6, 2015
Most of this info appears, worded just slightly differently from the original text, in various sections of the book, including the "Local History" section, the "Geology" section, and the "Twin Sisters" page. While it might be mixed around and abbreviated a bit, that is usually considered plagiarism by most. Whoever wrote this should at least give Bingham credit as the actual source. I noticed this in the first place because I had just read those sections in the guidebook a few days before reading this description. It sounded like deja vu.
By dave bingham
Apr 15, 2015
Yes, I've seen a number of examples of "paraphrasing" of passages in my guide. And yes, it is a little annoying to see one's work doctored up and presented as original. But as long as it's not directly copied,it's just lazing writing, not plagiarism.

Better to just quote the source!

Thanks for noticing Aerili!
By Matt Schroer
From: Logan, Utah
Jun 28, 2015
My apologies - I did not intend to plagiarize anything, nor did I realize that it was common practice to cite literature sources on a climbing forum. My intent was to get some quick information down on a climbing area so that others could benefit from that knowledge.

For the record, Dave's guidebook (which I own, and love) isn't the only source of information on the City of Rocks or the Twin Sisters. To appease all crowds, I've updated the text to include all sources used in this area description, and I encourage those interested to explore this literature, as it has a wealth of additional information.

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