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L to R R to L Alpha
Probably the best-named rock I've ever seen, Twin Owls is known for a collection of hard and often wide crack climbs, and is flanked by an fine assortment of satellite crags. Some notable routes include the legendary Crack of Fear (5.10d, very OW), Wolf's Tooth (5.8), Peaches and Cream (5.11+), East Ridge (5.8), and the Pin Route (5.4). Popular subsidiary cliffs include Rock One, Lower Owls, Hen and Chicken, and Gollum's Arch Rock, all of which are included below. Descent: find the saddle between the "Owls", and look for the "Bowels of the Owls", a deep chimney with some good-sized chocktones in it. Downclimb this (4th-5th class), or set up a rappel nearby. Don't get benighted on top. Subsidiary cliffs generally have self-explanatory descents.
From the new parking lot, head towards Lumpy Ridge on the left trail 0.7 miles, go right following the signs to Twin Owls. For the lower Twin Owls, take the first fork left. For the upper Twin Owls, continue right past the Lower Twin Owls trail split up about another 200 yards to the next split. Go left up towards Hen & Chickens, Roosting Ramp, and the Bowels of the Owls area. ~30 minutes to approach.
40 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Twin Owls
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Twin Owls:
Pin Route 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Organ Pipes 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Central Chimney 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
East Ridge 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches
Wolf's Tooth 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 3 pitches
Conan's Gonads (Conad's) 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch
Tiger's Tooth 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, 2 pitches
Rather Fight Than Switch 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch
Jamesia Jam 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Crack of Fear 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 3 pitches
Peaches and Cream 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a C2 R Trad, Aid
Autumn Mist 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c C2 Aid, 3 pitches
Anaconda 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- E7 7a Trad
Featured Route For Twin Owls
Coyote 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b R CO : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls
This is an incredible arete pitch which sits just right of the Tiger's Tooth offwidth. The second pitch is rarely done but makes for a great summit adventure on the Twin Owls. Approach the first bolt from the left and get ready for the exciting thin crux at the 5th bolt which is very thin. Runout 5.10 climbing takes you to the first pitch anchor. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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