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Twin Flakes 

Twin Flakes 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: W. Peterson, L. Hadfield, 1992
Season: Summer/Fall
Page Views: 1,534
Submitted By: David Hodges on Sep 4, 2006
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This was one of the anchor bolts! When taking int...

Description 

Follow 8 bolts up a steep left angling dihedral. I found this route to be very pumpy with the crux coming up high between the 6th and 7th bolt. Once the 8th bolt is clipped, I actually had to step down a few feet to a decent ledge and keep traversing left for about 10' and then up to reach the anchors. This may have not been the correct way but going up and over seemed a bit desperate for 10b. Rappel with 1 60m to the ground. Enjoy!


Location 

This route is located on the Ironside wall of Monitor Rock. Once you reach the wall from the approach trail on the west side of Monitor Rock head left which goes uphill. The wall starts just past some very large boulders where a talus field begins. This is the 2nd route to the climbers left from Prospector.


Protection 

8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with chains. The 2nd bolt has a chain hanging down from it.



Photos of Twin Flakes Slideshow Add Photo
How do you like this beauty? <br />Photo by Brian from SLC.
How do you like this beauty?
Photo by Brian from S...
Another beauty. The anchor on Twin Flakes doesn't seem so scary compared to this! <br />Photo by Clint Cummins.
Another beauty. The anchor on Twin Flakes doesn't ...
The start of the route, the 2nd bolt has a chain hanging down from it.
BETA PHOTO: The start of the route, the 2nd bolt has a chain h...
Moving past the 3rd bolt on a wonderful Labor Day weekend.
Moving past the 3rd bolt on a wonderful Labor Day ...
Hmm...I really like this anchor. <br /> <br />Photo by Clint Cummins.
Hmm...I really like this anchor.

Photo by Clint C...
Ironside Wall.
Ironside Wall.
Comments on Twin Flakes Add Comment
Show which comments
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jul 6, 2009

This climb is very fun. Steep and on positive holds I thought the crux was at the last bolt, as the climbing becomes inobvious but still steep. Stay right at the last bolt.

By Lyn
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 22, 2009

A really fun route! The route seems rather consistent- no distinct crux, just big hold, outdoor pumpy 'gym' climb. I don't recommend the second 3 bolt .9 pitch, but if you do it- don't run two together- the drag is extreme!

By adrenalated
From: Thornton, CO
Jul 13, 2010

Finishing directly over the bulge at the last bolt is still 10b, is more fun, and avoids the possibility of a pendulum lead fall. Finishing around left of the bulge is probably safer for topropers.