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The crux is at the top of the two parallel cracks under a roof to traverse right (crux), then pull onto a face onto a ledge to bolted anchor P1, belay. Then up to the top of the Lower Grotto Wall belay P2.
You can rap from the anchors with a single 60m rope.
This is easy to find, the two "twin cracks" left of Cryogenics
Trad, well-protected, bring some long runners though.
Tracie cleaning Twin Cracks.
Steep, juggy pulls to the anchor.
Carl P in the Twin Cracks.
Pulling the juggy hang to the ledge. The chains ar...
Protecting the crux at the roof.
Luke on the eponymous (had to look that word up--I...
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 13, 2009
Great route. High quality. This route had it all: jams, stemming, jugs, and a spicy traverse. Great to new leader, good gear the whole way.
Feb 13, 2011
Yes, I remember thinking that traverse was a little spicy for 5.8. Very fun.
By Evan J
Nov 9, 2014
Retrieved BD Camalot - if it is yours, pls contact me through MP.