Twin Cracks 5.9
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bh at the top of twin cracks.
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Description A beautiful fun route, and the easiest crack system on Supercrack Buttress. There's a good bit of liebacking on the smaller crack and then jamming and laddering on the wider to good anchors 40' up. It's not a classic and hence usually open; well worthwhile for climbing as a moderate on the buttress or while waiting for other climbs on the north end.
Climb up the main trail to Incredible Hand Crack and head N (left) about 80'. If you hit a leaning pillar at 130', you've gone about 40' too far - head back past a large bush. The little crack is in a right-facing dihedral, and the larger crack becomes the primary about 20' up. Good anchors, good toprope or something to play on when you're waiting or pumped from more serious endeavours.
It's a very good route, but only rates 2 stars because of the stellar stuff surrounding it.
Protection Double rack plus of #1 to #3 camalots for the short route should suffice. The left crack takes the small gear early, then the right takes the larger stuff later.
Wendy leading twin cracks.
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BETA PHOTO: Me on Twin Cracks.
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my first creek lead
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BETA PHOTO: Nearing the anchors, 1st pitch
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Starting up Twin Cracks. Great jams!
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Real men...haloween 2012
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By Aaron Shupp
Feb 6, 2002
| Every time I've been to IC there have been gaggles of people hanging on Twin Cracks all day long. It seems to be the favorite entry level climb.
I'm also a little confused about the rating. Maybe 5.8 or 5.8+. It seems far easier than other nines in the area. For example, Generic Crack is called 5.9+. To me, Generic should be rated at least a full grade more difficult than Twin Cracks. |
By KPRTX
Mar 23, 2002
| Great crack, easily protected and not too sustained. I will also add I would place it at a 5.8 or 5.8+ Its easy to get away without actually climbing the crack for those unexperianced indian creek cracksters like myself. |
By Friso Schlottau
Mar 31, 2002
| Just got back from my second trip out there, and I HIGHLY recommend this as a first climb in the area. Twin Cracks is awsome, but NOTE: RIGHT HANGER IS LOOSE! |
By Darin Lang
Apr 16, 2002
| I agree that this is an excellent climb, and a good introduction to the area. I would also call it 5.8+ at most, whether you use the cracks or not. Probably closer to 5.8 if you use the cracks - once located, the jams are reassuringly bomber all the way up (unless you have small hands - then you might have an off-fist or two at the top with good face holds for your right hand), and good rests are easily located. |
By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Oct 7, 2002
rating: 5.8
| If you are looking for a 5.8, you only have a few options so do the route, but it's just not that good compared to the splitters.
Only the top is a little burly, but it's short. |
By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Oct 3, 2007
rating: 5.8+
| this is a fun route |
By BretWith1T
From: Laramie, Wyoming
Sep 21, 2008
rating: 5.8+
| Poor little crack don't get no respect. Anyway, I protected it with 2 #3 Cammies at the ends and 2 #2's in in the middle. The climbing is so incredibly positive, you really don't need pro until the thing splits. At least I thought so. |
By natcat03
Dec 1, 2008
| The right bolt is now GONE. One bolt remains at the anchor.
Fun, easy climb. |
By Sarah Kate
From: Boulder, CO
May 5, 2009
| Awesome warm-up if you wake up EARLY. |
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
May 8, 2009
rating: 5.8
| Many climbs here seem to have sandbag grades (especially for an over-the-hill slab climber) but this is a very soft touch. Barely 5.8 - Hard Severe 4b in Yorkshire. |
By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Jan 14, 2010
| i put in 2 bolt this rocktober. lets keep it safe. |
By Top Rope Hero
From: Estes Park
May 10, 2010
rating: 5.8
| Wouldn't you know? The (new) right hanger is spinin', just like it's brethren past... |
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 2, 2011
| Fun climb. Did the left option at the top as forgot the 4 in the parking. Maybe slightly stiffer this way but definitely still fun. Lots of big rope grooves at the top from it being top roped. Solid 5.8 |
By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Nov 28, 2011
rating: 5.8-
| Anyone know about that second pitch? It looks enticing - especially climbing the OW variation behind the flake, assuming you can protect it! |
By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 29, 2012
| Fun, easy lead! Bring a #4 so you can exit the right crack below the anchor. I had to run this out because I didn't bring it... |
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