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 ADVANCED
The Watermark
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dark Tower T 
Glennevere S 
Lothlorien S 
Memory of Trees, The S 
Minas Tireth S 
Road to Isengard S 
Twin Cracks Left T,S 
Twin Cracks Right T,S 
Twin Peaks S,TR 

Twin Cracks Right 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns
New Route: Yes
Season: All
Page Views: 1,130
Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Aug 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Closeup of routes on the left side of The Watermar...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Twin Cracks Right (and Twin Cracks Left) begins with the first half of Twin Peaks and goes right into a separate crack system at the undercling (where the other goes left). The crux is somewhere along the crack (you decide). The crack itself is solid rock, mostly fingers. Recommend: skip the bolt just beneath the undercling and place pro out right (where you are going anyway). A steep finger crack then leads to a low-angle, V-shaped dihedral. Step right and lower off from the anchors for Glennevere.

Location 

This route begins with Twin Peaks and branches right at the undercling.

Protection 

QDs for 3 bolts plus gear up to 3 inches. Lower off from the 2-bolt anchor for Glennevere.


Photos of Twin Cracks Right Slideshow Add Photo
This photo shows a short section of the Low Trail ...
BETA PHOTO: This photo shows a short section of the Low Trail ...
Joan Johns cleaning in the rain, Twin Cracks Right...
Joan Johns cleaning in the rain, Twin Cracks Right...
Routes on the left side of The Watermark.
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the left side of The Watermark.
Loose rock section...be careful.
BETA PHOTO: Loose rock section...be careful.

Comments on Twin Cracks Right Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 2, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A short but fun crack. I clipped the bolt below the undercling with a long runner before stepping right. Be sure to place directional pro at the top of the crack for your second before moving right to the anchor on Glennevere. It's best for the leader to lower off and have the second follow and clean the pitch, since it would be hard to clean while lowering or rappeling due to the slanting nature of the climb.
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
May 31, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The entire climb can be safely lead without the bolts. The bottom section is easily protected with a large cam for the starting flake (3 or 4) and a yellow and blue Metolius. The crux is well-protected, even if the moves are a bit awkward.