|260 page views|
If you like a direct line, perfect sandstone, and hard bouldering, you'll probably enjoy Twilight. Aside from one painful fingerlock, this route is some of the best rock the Obed has to offer.
Begin with some steep, pumpy climbing through weird slopers and sidepulls to a boulder problem that revolves around a pretty painful fingerlock. Dynamic moves on bad holds will get you through the next roof. Keep pulling all the way to the lip of the final roof (watch out for a loose block in the back of it) near the top of the wall.
It might be worth taping a few fingers for this one; the fingerlock really does bite.
About 15 feet right of Roughin' Up the Suspects. Look for the clean face with chalked crimps and a fairly obvious fingerlock slot about thirty feet up.
7 bolts to a chain anchor. Some of the draws should be longer for rope drag and hard clips. The holds getting to the first bolt are a bit crumbly; a stick clip is nice.