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BETA PHOTO: Loafers, Lowe Route, Twilight, Carol's Crack. Cha...
This is a decently long route that starts up a crack and crosses over a small fin to the left and then continues up another crack/groove system.
Located in the breadloaves in the higher elevation rock formations. The wall faces west and is exposed as the rest of city of rocks. Take the emery canyon road toward the end and make a left at the breadloaves. There is a big parking lot and a few campsites.
Walk down the tea kettle trail. It is located left of Carol's Crack. There is a picnic bench and a big boulder near the start. On the west face of the wall south of the breadloaves and bloody fingers basically on the other side of the provo wall.
Better yet, take a look at the picture.
There's a decent spot 10 feet near the top where you can set up a belay anchor and then belay your partner up and then scramble to the top and walk over to the belay chains. Says 2 rope rappel but center mark was on the ground when we rapp'd with a 60 m rope.
I took metolius 3,5,6,7,8 BD .5 #2 and 2 aliens and a full nut set. Gear for a belay is also needed.
Jim Donini, low on Twilight.
donini making the step-across move.
Donini, high on Twilight.
From: Denver, CO
Jul 23, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
This was a nice, easy 5.6 climb. Make sure you extend below the left traverse into the crack system. The traverse is maybe the only intimidating part, but even then, it's not that bad. Beautiful small to medium sized options up top for an anchor.
By Matt Schroer
From: Logan, Utah
Mar 17, 2013
Another city trad route that climbs more like a sport route - I only threw one hand jam to get over the bulge at the very beginning of the climb, and even that probably isn't needed - I just found it the easiest way for me. After that, easy, fun patina pulling to the top. Takes gear of all sizes really well.