Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Twilight Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cosmic Thing T 
Free Me 
Free Me (free) T 
Rome In a Day S 
Sunset Arete S 
Unknown T 
Without Wheels T 

Twilight Buttress  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.53601, -111.80204 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,207
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: kBobby on Jun 20, 2005
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

A northeast-facing granite buttress with both crack climbing and face climbing at low elevation and a sense of solitude. Most routes are in the .10s and .11s, with a couple of nice aid climbs as well. The most striking line has got to be Sunset Arete, with its varnished patina face climbing through solution pockets.

All routes except For Lorne can be descended with a single 60m rope.

In the summer, the buttress is in the sun in the morning, but shaded in the late afternoon.

Getting There 

Driving from BCC and LCC: take Wasatch Blvd south to about 11000 S., where it turns west (at 1700 E). There is a LDS church and a park on the outside corner of this turn. Park at the park.

Follow a paved trail SE until it meets an old dirt road towards the Shoreline Trail. Follow this steep road past a baracade and up... and up... When you get to a concrete catchment, cross the stream and bushwhack to the obvious granite buttress. It looks like there was once a trail, but many trees have fallen and erased it. Approach time ~ 35 min.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.7 miles from here

7 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Twilight Buttress:
Sunset Arete   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Unknown   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
Without Wheels   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
Browse More Classics in Twilight Buttress

Featured Route For Twilight Buttress

Unknown 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Twilight Buttress
This route is a combination of gear and bolts. It seems to follow a crack just around the right edge of the arete. Follow this up to a small roof section. A horizontal crack here marks the crux of the route. Balancy moves with good foot and not so good hands give way to a really good jug. Follow the arete to the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Twilight Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Here is a picture of the wall
BETA PHOTO: Here is a picture of the wall

Comments on Twilight Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 9, 2015
By Todd H
From: Sandy, UT
Jul 3, 2015
Tanner, you are confused. The rock identified on your photo is not the Twilight Buttress. Twilight is further up the canyon, on the south side (north facing slope). I believe what you think is Twilight is actually known as Big Willow Quartzite.
By user id
Jul 3, 2015
Read Tanner's comment if you want to get really lost and not climb

Your picture is no where near the Twilight Buttress. Try using a guide book once and a while, its one of those things with paper and directions inside. Plenty of people with more sense have been here well under 10 years ago, and a few have even been there this spring. I will give you credit for persevering, you spent hours looking for a trail and neither you or your partner thought you might be in the wrong place?
By nooky brown
Jul 3, 2015
Too funny, the "Proj" strikes again.
By zoso
Jul 3, 2015
A "guide" what now???
By nooky brown
Jul 3, 2015
Bifocals are the way zozo
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 3, 2015
Pretty amusing that you can see the jeep road on this picture. Maybe following that ROAD to a large buttress made of GRANITE on the SOUTH side of the canyon would have helped? The anchor points are fine...
By Tanner Wilcox
From: Provo, UT
Jul 8, 2015
Alright guys no need to be dicks about it. I read the instructions on how to get there and I followed them. I also looked at pictures and matched it to that rock. In the getting there it says to go until you reach the catchment and that's what I did. If you want to actually be helpful could you please post a google maps style picture like I did that shows where it is?
By grk10vq
Administrator
Jul 8, 2015
click: View Map on the top of this page

or you could try using a guide book?
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 8, 2015
How the hell do you match pics of a granite buttress to a chunk of red quartzite?
You didn't find a catchment, you found a pipe bridge... Didn't you wonder why it only took you 10 minutes to get there instead of 35?

That would be how to get to Twilight
That would be how to get to Twilight
By Tanner Wilcox
From: Provo, UT
Jul 8, 2015
Dude quit being an asshole I'm just trying to find a climb with pretty bad information. The instructions never say that the roads end and the top of the rock looked similar to the top of the rock in the picture. I don't understand your frustration I'm just asking for help
By Tofu Brain
Jul 8, 2015
He has already been there!
He has already been there!


Tanner is a troll, he sent Sunset Arete on the 2nd!
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 8, 2015
Asshole? You ungrateful twat, I made you a map!

I'm sorry to hear that the top of both buttresses look similar and it threw you off. I'm impressed your persevered without realizing that the nature of the rock, the approach time and orientation of the crag were wrong. I imagine you had your phone with you to compare pics? Gotta wonder in which state you'd have ended up if you had been going by the guidebook...

Congrats though, you probably made a rare repeat of:

The other Sunset Arete
The other Sunset Arete


Although the description for that pile doesn't make it sound like you should have had a major Survivor moment in talus and scrub oak.
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Jul 9, 2015
This is what happens when utahclimbers.com shuts down...
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!