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Twilight Buttress

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Cosmic Thing T 
Free Me 
Free Me (free) T 
Rome In a Day S 
Sunset Arete S 
Unknown T 
Without Wheels T 

Twilight Buttress  


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Location: 40.53601, -111.80204 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,720
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: kBobby on Jun 20, 2005
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Description 

A northeast-facing granite buttress with both crack climbing and face climbing at low elevation and a sense of solitude. Most routes are in the .10s and .11s, with a couple of nice aid climbs as well. The most striking line has got to be Sunset Arete, with its varnished patina face climbing through solution pockets.

All routes except For Lorne can be descended with a single 60m rope.

In the summer, the buttress is in the sun in the morning, but shaded in the late afternoon.

Getting There 

Driving from BCC and LCC: take Wasatch Blvd south to about 11000 S., where it turns west (at 1700 E). There is a LDS church and a park on the outside corner of this turn. Park at the park.

Follow a paved trail SE until it meets an old dirt road towards the Shoreline Trail. Follow this steep road past a baracade and up... and up... When you get to a concrete catchment, cross the stream and bushwhack to the obvious granite buttress. It looks like there was once a trail, but many trees have fallen and erased it. Approach time ~ 35 min.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.7 miles from here

7 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Twilight Buttress:
Sunset Arete   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Unknown   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
Without Wheels   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
Browse More Classics in Twilight Buttress

Featured Route For Twilight Buttress

Sunset Arete 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Twilight Buttress
Great pitch. Short but packed with fun, pumpy moves. Be careful getting to the first bolt, you may want to stick clip it....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Twilight Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Here is a picture of the wall
BETA PHOTO: Here is a picture of the wall

Comments on Twilight Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tanner Wilcox
From: Provo, UT
2 days ago
Read this if you don't want to get lost!

Alright it looks like no one has been here in over 10 years so I'm going to provide a bit of an update on the area and better directions on how to get to the Twilight Buttress. I've attached a map of sorts because it took us a long time to even verify that we were going the right way.

First thing you should know, the hike is brutal. What was probably a nice trail is now a rather steep hike littered with loose rocks. Make sure you bring great hiking shoes and a walking stick wouldn't hurt. Also I would recommend bringing a machete or better yet a chainsaw for later on.

Park in the parking lot of the park near the church, (other directions tell you how to get there). Walk SE up the paved trail until you hit a dirt path labeled Bonneville Shoreline Trail. It will be the first dirt path on your left. This heads north. Walk up that a bit until you hit a red gate labelled "No dogs, this means you." walk past that and keep going until you get to a second gate that I assume used to say no trespassing. It's very weathered at this point. Hop that and keep going up. You're going to get to a point where you cross over a stream. When you see a (pretty hidden) cement catchment on your right you know you've gone far enough. Now look up, Twilight Buttress is the second rock formation on your left (north of where you're standing).

Previous instructions say there was some sort of trail but it looks like fallen trees have closed it down. We looked for hours and found no trail. We tried climbing a very rocky slope and caused a rock slide, hurt my ankle. The only way we could find a way to the rock was by going through extremely think forestry. You will need to cut a lot of stuff down from what we saw. We even tried hiking to the back the Twilight Buttress, again, no way to get to it.

It looks like no one has been here in years and there's no real trail to get to the actual climb. Good luck using the anchor points as they're probably pretty worn at this point.

Please comment here or direct message me if you find a way. Pics would be awesome!
This map shows how pretty impossible it is to get ...
This map shows how pretty impossible it is to get from the trail to the climb.
By Todd H
From: Sandy, UT
1 day ago
Tanner, you are confused. The rock identified on your photo is not the Twilight Buttress. Twilight is further up the canyon, on the south side (north facing slope). I believe what you think is Twilight is actually known as Big Willow Quartzite.
By user id
1 day ago
Read Tanner's comment if you want to get really lost and not climb

Your picture is no where near the Twilight Buttress. Try using a guide book once and a while, its one of those things with paper and directions inside. Plenty of people with more sense have been here well under 10 years ago, and a few have even been there this spring. I will give you credit for persevering, you spent hours looking for a trail and neither you or your partner thought you might be in the wrong place?
By nooky brown
1 day ago
Too funny, the "Proj" strikes again.
By zoso
1 day ago
A "guide" what now???
By nooky brown
1 day ago
Bifocals are the way zozo
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
1 day ago
Pretty amusing that you can see the jeep road on this picture. Maybe following that ROAD to a large buttress made of GRANITE on the SOUTH side of the canyon would have helped? The anchor points are fine...
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