Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Triple Corners Right
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chris Hassig's Memorial Route T 
Dirty Dozen S 
Jigsaw Puzzle T,S 
Left El Diego S 
Lichen Dike T 
Middle Man S 
Murk Trench S 
Perfectly Blunt S 
Rack for Sale S 
Spiders in the faith T 
Still My Way S 
Sun Bowl S 
Technical Second S 
Trigger Happy S 
Twelve Pack S 

Twelve Pack 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mark Sprague 5/96
Page Views: 101
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Up the corner past a technical tricky spot and on to a roomy ledge with a dying tree on it. Break left just under the tree and follow a line of bolts up the steep wall above. There is a crux overcoming the steepest part of the wall and on to some decent crimps. A little run out here... Climb a crack to the right clipping a thank god bolt on the left and up to the chains.

A great climb that is plagued by wetness (just the first half) and tucked in to a corner that is not often explored. But it is very worth while when dry.

Location 

Start in the often wet corner just left of Lichen Dike.

Protection 

10 bolts to anchors.


Comments on Twelve Pack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 12, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The manky, mossy start to Twelve Pack (and to Dirty Dozen) is fine when dry, but really nasty when wet, and it is often wet. This route is harder than Dirty Dozen (more technical and more beta-dependent), but it's definitely worth doing. However, there is a twelve foot run-out between the bolt protecting the crux and the next one. This is a difficult section of the climb. You're going a l-o-n-g way if you blow the clip on that last bolt.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 12, 2016

I reclimbed this recently and remembering it was a bit run out, I was glad I brought the random cam that was in the bottom of my pack. It made getting to the bolt a lot more comfortable. A fat finger sized cam or even a large nut will work well. I am contemplating rebolting it a bit, but that will wreck the name, though I guess it could be a dozen bolts and anchor;) I was pleasantly surprised at how good the actual climbing was after all these years, but it was a nice dry day.I agree with Nick that it could use some recleaning on the bottom and to avoid when wet.
By S. Neoh
Aug 12, 2016

I have done Dirty Dozen a number of times but never this route. Thanks for the tip about bring an extra cam/nut for the runout section. High on my Rumney to-do list this Fall.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!