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The Blues Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Accidental Discharge S 
Black Cat Bone S 
Blue in the Face S 
Color of Pain, The S 
Cry Baby S 
Number 9 T 
Rhythm and Bolts S 
Starfish T,S 
Twelve Gauge IQ T 
Unicorn Blues S 
Written in Stone S 

Twelve Gauge IQ 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Greg Collum, Matt Kerns
Page Views: 418
Submitted By: Drewsky on Dec 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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12-Gauge IQ follows the red line. Black Cat Bone i...

Description 

Starts with a flake and knobs left of the start to Black Cat Bone. A steep start leads to lower angle climbing to a corner. Climb the discontinuous finger crack in the corner past *ahem* 3 or 4 bolts to a roof. Turn the crux roof (.12) to steeper climbing above on jugs. You can catch some good air on this one in a couple of places if you fall! Stellar route; the bolted crack climbing on this one isn't quite as flagrant as on its neighbor. Easier than other .12c's at the area, so I gave it the more objective '.12' rating.

Location 

Located on the left portion of the wall. A 60m rope lowers.

Protection 

Bolts. Fixed anchors on top.


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By Ol' Toby
From: WA
Jul 3, 2014
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This route is really fun. Despite it's bolted nature, the dihedral climbing is high quality on beautiful stone and the roof succumbs to good beta and a few gymnastic pulls. No doubt easier than the other .12c I've tried at Index.