The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
The summit of Turtleback Dome offers a small circuit of easy problems and a couple moderates on high friction granite with cool features. The humming generators and radio equipment take away a bit from the ambiance, but the views up valley of El Cap and Half Dome are killer, and you'll probably have the place to yourself. This is a good place to come with beginners or as a family outing. The summit of Turtleback is a high point with no tree cover and so it gets all day sun. Thus, the boulders dry out exceptionally fast after a rain storm, probably faster than any of the other bouldering spots in the Valley.
Coming from the Valley, drive about a half mile past the Rostrum pullout and park at a dirt pullout on the right side of the road just after passing a service road on the left. Walk up the service road to the summit of Turtleback Dome.
The first antennae has a cool looking boulder with heucos, but unfortunately the rock is crumbling granola. Maybe with a bunch of ascents it would clean up and yield some classics.
Behind the second antennae is the premier boulder of the circuit. Up the center of the northwest face is a classic V2 mantel, with several easier problems on the other sides of it.
Just downhill to the west is a long "wave" shaped boulder which features some harder problems, and downhill to the north is another good one with several VB-V0's and a full-circle traverse.
There are also several boulders in the drainage to the right of the service road that you pass on the hike up. There are a few worthwhile problems to be found here but in general the rock quality leaves much to be desired.