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Turtle Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Actual Parchments, The S 
Banana Dance S 
Carapace S 
Dancing Fox S 
Director of Humor Affairs S 
Endangered Species S 
Farmers Dance S 
Farmers Market S 
Flying Dragon, The S 
Gopherus Agassizi S 
Knuckle Bones S 
Lambada S 
Largado S 
Pinching Bird Shit S 
Tortuga S 
Trey Lizardos S 
Turtle Soup S 
Voodoo Economics S 
Waltz, The S 

Turtle Wall Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.1498, -113.61205 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 18,138
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: richard magill on Apr 5, 2006

92° | 62°

95° | 64°

99° | 67°

101° | 70°

101° | 71°

99° | 71°
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This is a nice crag that is easily accessible to St. George but has a bit more of a outdoor feeling to it than the Chuckawalla Wall.

The stone here is very similar to the Chuckwalla Wall - steep in many places with big pockets. A bit soft and sandy, but overall not too chossy and fun to climb on. All bolted and generally well-bolted.

Turtle has some steeper stone than Chuckwalla and a natural arch/cave with some really steep routes like Banana Dance (11+). There are routes here from 5.8 to 5.13.

Faces east so it gets morning sun and afternoon shade.

See here for an oblique, aerial view.

Getting There 

Park at the Chuckwalla parking lot (about a mile north of St. George on Hwy 18). The parking lot is well-signed and hard to miss.

Then walk past Chuckawalla Wall and follow the well-signed trail about a mile into the desert. You will see Turtle Wall on your left as you walk north.

Don't follow the first sign that says "Turtle Wall" and heads off left. Continue straight until a sign that states "Climbing Access" and then head left across the wash.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.8 miles from here

19 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Turtle Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Turtle Wall:
Voodoo Economics   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 40'   
Endangered Species   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 40'   
Director of Humor Affairs   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Carapace   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 40'   
Lambada   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Farmers Market   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 35'   
Pinching Bird Shit   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 40'   
Trey Lizardos   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 50'   
Banana Dance   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 40'   
Dancing Fox   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 15'   
Tortuga   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
The Waltz   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Actual Parchments   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Turtle Wall

Featured Route For Turtle Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Clip me if you can.

Farmers Market 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  UT : Saint George : Turtle Wall
Fun jug haul. The crux is staying on once making the transition after the second bolt to the near horizontal roof. Save some juice for the last few clips. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Turtle Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: south end of turtle wall
south end of turtle wall
Rock Climbing Photo: my brother from another mother cruzin' this turtle...
my brother from another mother cruzin' this turtle...
Rock Climbing Photo: jeff taking a unique rest on Director of Human Aff...
jeff taking a unique rest on Director of Human Aff...
Rock Climbing Photo: This really is a rad climb!!
This really is a rad climb!!
Rock Climbing Photo: the turn off
the turn off

Comments on Turtle Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By EricW
From: Sandy, Ut
Jan 22, 2008
More climbs in the 5.11-5.13 range in the cave that are not mentioned here. Had I climbed them, I would list them. I just saw the bolts.
By mattjbudd
From: West Valley, UT
Apr 5, 2010
Check out some videos of this awesome crag.

Banana Dance

Dancing Fox
By yesrodcire
Apr 3, 2016
Can't recommend this wall to anyone based on the rookie bolting job. Spinners, bolts in a sandy horizontal roof, poor bolt placement in general, and risk for decking on most of the cave routes if you blow any of the clips. This is all bolting 101 stuff that was somehow missed by the developers...

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