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Turtle Rock
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Turtle Rock - East Face 
Turtle Rock - South Face 

Turtle Rock 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,200'
Lat, Long: 34.0104, -116.1666 Map
Page Views: 9,828. Good page?   
Administrators: C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Randy on Mar 9, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Turtle Rock

Description 

This very large formation lies south of the large Real Hidden Valley parking lot and immediately adjacent to (south of) the picnic areas. It features routes of the widest possible variance in grade of any formation in the Park (from 5.3 to 5.14a).

The Northeast face is somewhat broken and features a number of popular 1 and 2 pitch easy to moderate climbs. These include Bisk (5.4); Blistering (5.5); Wandering Tortoise (5.3); Easy Day (5.4) and Luminous Breast (5.8).

The South face lies in a sheltered corridor and is generally overhanging, with rock that ranges from good to poor. All routes are hard (5.12 to 5.14) sport routes. Satanic Mechanic (5.12a/b) and Desert Shield (5.13a) are the best known and most sought after routes. Integrity (5.14a) is the hardest route on this wall, involving a long traversing section.


Getting There 

To reach the Northeast and Southeast faces, walk left around the rock (Northeast face) and continue left, scrambling up boulders (Southeast face).

To reach the South face. walk around the far right side of the rock (right of the Pillars of Pain), then turn left at the So High Boulder and then cut slightly left through boulders to reach the corridor along the base of the South face. Routes are encountered in the following order Abandoned Project; Desert Shield; Integrity; Jesus Lives; and Santanic Mechanic.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Turtle Rock:
Easy Day   5.4     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   Turtle Rock - East Face
Satanic Mechanic   5.12a/b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Turtle Rock - South Face
Desert Shield   5.13a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Turtle Rock - South Face
Browse More Classics in Turtle Rock

Featured Route For Turtle Rock
Sexy Sadye, 5.10+

Sexy Sadye 5.10d  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Turtle Rock - South Face
This route is found on the Southeast corner of Turtle Rock, a few hundred feet to the right of Satanic Mechanic. Some smearing, crimping, and a couple mantles take you past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor/rappel. This was incorrectly given an "R" rating in the Joshua Tree West guide. The climb is a fun and well protected lead. There is even a solid gear placement between the 1st and 2nd bolt if you're worried about blowing the 5.7 moves there....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Turtle Rock Slideshow Add Photo
The "So High" boulder. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

The "So High" boulder.
Photo by Blitzo.


Turtle Rock. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Turtle Rock.
Photo by Blitzo.


Some random route at Turtle Rock. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Some random route at Turtle Rock.
Photo by Blitzo.


Turtle Rock by low light. Photo by Tony Bubb, 1/04.

Turtle Rock by low light. Photo by Tony Bubb, 1/04...

Mixing it up and having fun on Turtle Rock

Mixing it up and having fun on Turtle Rock


Comments on Turtle Rock Add Comment
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By joe-boo-boo
Mar 20, 2007

To get down walk to the climbers left, go down a few "levels" , then turn right and walk around to face the Hidden Valley parking. Once you see a pine look for a black streak. Don't cross the gully, go down the slab towards the prking area.