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DescriptionThis very large formation lies south of the large Real Hidden Valley parking lot and immediately adjacent to (south of) the picnic areas. It features routes of the widest possible variance in grade of any formation in the Park (from 5.3 to 5.14a). Getting ThereTo reach the Northeast and Southeast faces, walk left around the rock (Northeast face) and continue left, scrambling up boulders (Southeast face). The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Turtle Rock:
Easy Day 5.4 Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet Turtle Rock - East Face
Satanic Mechanic 5.12a/b Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Turtle Rock - South Face
Desert Shield 5.13a Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Turtle Rock - South Face
Featured Route For Turtle Rock
Sexy Sadye 5.10d CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Turtle Rock - South Face
This route is found on the Southeast corner of Turtle Rock, a few hundred feet to the right of Satanic Mechanic. Some smearing, crimping, and a couple mantles take you past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor/rappel. This was incorrectly given an "R" rating in the Joshua Tree West guide. The climb is a fun and well protected lead. There is even a solid gear placement between the 1st and 2nd bolt if you're worried about blowing the 5.7 moves there....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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