This very small, turtle-shaped crag, sits facing west, well below Canyon Block. It cannot be clearly seen from the parking pullout or driving down canyon. Follow a faint trail with cairns from the pullout that zig zags east up the hill (and not in the stream gully).
Here you will find a collection of moderate routes I developed for my daughter and her friends, who were all under age 10. There are about 10 micro sized routes. The routes are mixed protection, a couple of bolts on the blank slab and trad gear. All bolts (4 total) were hand drilled manually.
This was the first route done on the crag and remains a favorite way to introduce newcomers to Turtle Rock.Start in the short, steep, little, left-facing dihedral that sits 12 feet directly below a small tree. Climb a 5.7 shallow crack up to the tree and sling it for pro. Tip toe up and LEFT, out the slab to a bolt. Trend left into a crack and climb it to its top. Continue up until you reach 1 bolt anchor next to a nice crack for a hex. Belay.Continue up the mountaineering second pitch or caref...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
I worked on this little crag for kids between September 2011 and Dec. 2012. I wanted to create a place for micro-adventures for children and their parents. I left some fixed ropes and nuts while working it that have been removed by someone else.
As a Boulder trad climber for over 35 years, I did not want excessive bolting to marr the aesthetics of this little area. So I have carefully thought about each and every bolt I hand drilled (4 total): three on the blank slab (for three different routes) and 1 at the top belay. I believe this spartan style creates a mixed-pro route that will be safe yet adventurous for young climbers and their parents.
Since I learned to climb in the 1970s, I planned the top anchor to be 1 bolt and 1 fixed hex in a good crack, equalized and with rap rings, but I now realize that wasn't the best idea since someone else removed the hex and rap rings. So, currently the safest way off is by walk off descent to the south until I get the top anchor safe for rappel/top rope.
Thanks for your patience with my efforts to create a bus accessible, family-style crag for youngsters.
Each of the routes here is much longer than the stated 40 feet. With the possible exception of the two easy routes farthest left (which I didn't do), each of the routes climbs about 65 to 75 feet from the ground to the one-bolt anchor (where you can add a hex, cam, or big stopper to back up the anchor bolt). We brought a 100-foot rope and had to walk off after every lead.
About six feet left of the start of Fiona is a vertical seam with two fixed KBs. This is directly beneath the bolt on Fiona. To climb directly from the undercut start, up to the first pin is at least 5.11. To start a few feet farther right, bouldering up, then moving left to clip the pin is maybe 5.9-. After bouldering up from the ground, placing a small wire or RP before continuing up and left to the second pin may be better than reaching down and to the left to clip the first pin. Is this the route Heads or Tails??