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Turtle Rock - South Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Desert Shield S 
Integrity S 
Jesus Lives S 
Kippy Korner T 
Lieback and Lingerie T 
Satanic Mechanic S 
Sexy Sadye T 
Wind Burn T 
Unsorted Routes:

Turtle Rock - South Face  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,200'
Page Views: 2,267
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on May 31, 2010
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Jeff Gicklhorn leading Satanic Mechanic.

Description 

This part of Turtle Rock encompasses the south end of the formation and includes the sheltered and steep corridor of Turtle Rock. In this corridor, some prized but hard Joshua Tree sport climbs can be found, ranging from 12a to 14a

Getting There 

To reach the Southern Formation, walk around the far right side of the rock past the Pillars of Pain, then turn left. For further access to the corridor veer slightly left through boulders to reach the base of the South face.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.5 miles from here

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',0],['5.12',2],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Turtle Rock - South Face:
Satanic Mechanic   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Desert Shield   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Turtle Rock - South Face

Featured Route For Turtle Rock - South Face
Bolt topo for Desert Shield

Desert Shield 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Turtle Rock - South Face
This is a powerful, endurance route, with some pretty hard moves. With the exception of a knee bar near the beginning of the route, there are no rests to speak of. The technical crux is near the bottom (this has gotten harder since part of a rail broke a few years back); though just linking all the moves together to the final jug is the real test. This is not a soft 5.13a. It might seem harder if you climb in areas like Red Rocks, but more in line if you climb in places like Rifle. It...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Turtle Rock - South Face Slideshow Add Photo
Desert Shield 5.13a
BETA PHOTO: Desert Shield 5.13a

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