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Turtle Rock - South Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Desert Shield S 
Integrity S 
Jesus Lives S 
Kippy Korner T 
Lieback and Lingerie T 
Satanic Mechanic S 
Sexy Sadye T 
Wind Burn T 
Unsorted Routes:

Turtle Rock - South Face  


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Elevation: 4,200'
Page Views: 2,369
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on May 31, 2010
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Jeff Gicklhorn leading Satanic Mechanic.

Description 

This part of Turtle Rock encompasses the south end of the formation and includes the sheltered and steep corridor of Turtle Rock. In this corridor, some prized but hard Joshua Tree sport climbs can be found, ranging from 12a to 14a

Getting There 

To reach the Southern Formation, walk around the far right side of the rock past the Pillars of Pain, then turn left. For further access to the corridor veer slightly left through boulders to reach the base of the South face.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.5 miles from here

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',0],['5.12',2],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Turtle Rock - South Face:
Satanic Mechanic   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Desert Shield   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Turtle Rock - South Face

Featured Route For Turtle Rock - South Face
Sexy Sadye, 5.10+

Sexy Sadye 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Turtle Rock - South Face
This route is found on the Southeast corner of Turtle Rock, a few hundred feet to the right of Satanic Mechanic. Some smearing, crimping, and a couple mantles take you past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor/rappel. This was incorrectly given an "R" rating in the Joshua Tree West guide. The climb is a fun and well protected lead. There is even a solid gear placement between the 1st and 2nd bolt if you're worried about blowing the 5.7 moves there....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Turtle Rock - South Face Slideshow Add Photo
Desert Shield 5.13a
BETA PHOTO: Desert Shield 5.13a

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