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Turtle Dome
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Turtle Dome Crack 
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Turtle Dome Crack 

Hueco: V0 Font: 4

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V1 Font: 5 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 3,111
Submitted By: Tyler Logan on Mar 18, 2008

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Paul Gleason on TD. Think I had the FA in '69 or '...

Description 

A Rubidoux semi-classic! Made famous for its inclusion in one of John Long's old instructional videos (an interesting sequence appeared in the film showing hand jamming technique, somehow shot from within or from the other side of the boulder). This problem is a must-do, and may also be tried as a difficult lieback (rated B1 in the Craig Fry guide). Done the standard way, tight hands lead to one or two perfect jams and then the crack becomes wider than you'd like far too quickly. Most people opt to lieback to the top once it gets wide, although fists and offwidth techniques will also get you there.

Protection 

crash pad and spotters, or toprope with 4.5" cam


Photos of Turtle Dome Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Grant Kim 12-04-11
Grant Kim 12-04-11
Grant Kim 12-04-11
Grant Kim 12-04-11
The Woodson-like "Turtle Dome Crack"
The Woodson-like "Turtle Dome Crack"
Grant Kim 12-04-11
Grant Kim 12-04-11
Grant Kim 12-04-11
Grant Kim 12-04-11
Grant Kim 12-04-11
Grant Kim 12-04-11
Turtle Dome Crack Topo
BETA PHOTO: Turtle Dome Crack Topo

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