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Turret Dome

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Car Stud S 
Escorndido S 
Fashionably Uninvited T 
Fishook T 
Guide's Route T 
Jaws T 
Junior Jules Doinks a Digit S 
Knup T 
Mexicanist, The S 
Schooldaze T 
Sloppy Shoes S 
Sunshine Slab T 
Upper Arch S 
Upper Lip T 
Velvet Habel T,S 
Welcoming, The S 
White Stress T,S 

Turret Dome Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.93435, -105.40736 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 13,539
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Julian Smith on Sep 24, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: Schooldaze kind of goes right up the center.

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"Turret Dome is the largest rock in Elevenmile and offers an excellent selection of moderate slab routes. The south face has routes up to three pitches long with runouts in some places. The west face is shorter and offers steeper routes." Bob D'Antonio (taken from his Elevenmile Canyon guidebook)...this says it all, "Outstanding multi-pitch rock with fewer [crowds] on it."

Getting There 

Turret Dome is located 4.3 miles up the canyon on the right. Park at Elevenmile picnic area, cross the bridge and head upstream. You can't miss it. For south and west face routes, approach high over a short slab to avoid a dead end into the creek. This will take you directly into the start of Schooldaze.

From the summit, work north and downclimb to a saddle. Descend east to the picnic area.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.2 miles from here

17 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Turret Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Turret Dome:
Sunshine Slab   5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c     Trad, 3 pitches   
Jaws   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 4 pitches, 330'   
Fishook   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Schooldaze   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches   
Guide's Route   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Velvet Habel   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Sport   
Upper Lip   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
The Mexicanist   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Upper Arch   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Sloppy Shoes   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Escorndido   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Junior Jules Doinks a Digit   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Turret Dome

Featured Route For Turret Dome
Rock Climbing Photo: April climbing "Junior Jules Doinks a Digit&q...

Junior Jules Doinks a Digit 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  CO : South Platte : ... : Turret Dome
This is the center of the 3 bolted routes in the upper arch on the West face of Turret Dome. It is tricky down low and again about 2/3 of the way up. It is thin but direct, and it's all there. Excellent route and spectacular setting....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Turret Dome Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper Arch area. Continue past Guide's Route, Thro...
BETA PHOTO: Upper Arch area. Continue past Guide's Route, Thro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Turret Dome from the summit of Arch Rock.  The rap...
BETA PHOTO: Turret Dome from the summit of Arch Rock. The rap...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brenda raps off the big pine tree on the back of t...
Brenda raps off the big pine tree on the back of t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Turret Dome.
BETA PHOTO: Turret Dome.
Rock Climbing Photo: Hangin' in a bathtub waiting to do the last pitch ...
Hangin' in a bathtub waiting to do the last pitch ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brenda tops out on Turret Dome with the Platte Riv...
Brenda tops out on Turret Dome with the Platte Riv...

Comments on Turret Dome Add Comment
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By Sean O'Dell
Mar 6, 2002
"Decend east into picnic area" doesn't quite do justice to the decent from the summit. The downclimb off the back of this rock is kind of a pain (5.4-ish in spots), so when doing a route that summits Turret Dome (such as the Guide's Route), make sure to keep the ol' climbing shoes on for the downclimb and allow appropriate extra time.
By Anonymous Coward
May 28, 2002
Does anybody know anything about the bolted lines on Turret Dome? They looked like they were put up fairly recently. Any info. would be much appreciated.
By Larry Shaw
Jul 28, 2005
They are in the database as [Unknown 1, Unknown 2,] and [Sloppy Shoes].
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Sep 11, 2006
If the descent is wet, like it was for us today, you can go to a large tree on the North side of the dome (on your right facing Turret from the road). A 60 meter rope will barely get you all the way down past two ledges. The second ledge has a small tree to rap off if all you have is a 50 meter or you just want to be sure. If you do the full rap, angle the rope to the left to hit a mossy ledge. Going straight down won't work.
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 25, 2010
Descent Info: As of Sept 2010, there were two good slings on the large pine tree at the back and right side of the dome summit. I added a rappel ring to save wear and tear on the slings. It's a fun, easy rappel down two ledges. Much more enjoyable for me than downclimbing. It gets you down to where it's just an easy hike down the saddle. I hope everyone will leave the slings & rap ring in place for future climbers to descend on. Thanks!
By Chip Loomis
Aug 15, 2011
I wanted to add a little clarity about the sport routes along the West Face of Turret Dome. However, there is a chance that this information may just muddy the water since it is only information that I gleamed from reading the other posts. After climbing there this weekend, we found that the directions to some of the older sport routes did not match since newer sport routes have been added. We found a total of 9 sport routes along the West Face and I will list them from Left to Right even though you will likely reach them the opposite way, right to left (sorry).

From L to R
1. Most Toppest: Farthest left and toppest, passed Upper Arch.
The next three routes are under the Upper Arch.
2. Junior Juiles Doinks a Digit.
3. Escondido.
4. Inner Space Arch.
The next routes are below 'The Tunnel', a couple hundred feet below Upper Arch. Specifically there are two that start on the same face just below Guide's Route.
5. Velvet Habel: I think, regardless it is a 50 foot 5.7 with 5-6 bolts. About 20 feet below the start of Guide's Route.
6. Unknown 5.7: Another short route with 5-6 bolts 20 feet below Velvet Habel.
The next three are very close to each other.
7. The Mexicanist.
8. Car Stud.
9. Sloppy Shoes: mixed.
A couple hundred feet below these routes are Schooldaze and Jaws.
By Kenny P
From: Woodland Park
Aug 25, 2013
As of August 2013, the route list for a portion of Turret is missing from this site; refer to the "Eleven Miles to Freedom" guidebook by Schmitt which can clear any confusion.

There are many great routes in the mid-5.10 range to make a great day's outing worth the 15min "approach"!

Moderate Routes not to be missed include:
"Smoke Pot... Check Knot", 5.10b**** (sport).
"Fashionably uninvited", 5.10c*** (trad).
"Canine Rescue", 5.10a**** (sport).
"Aid Route", 5.10a** (trad).
"Junior Jules Doinks a Digit", 5.10b*** (sport).
By SteveF
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 8, 2015
There are many different options for the summit pitch of routes on the south face (i.e. Sunshine Slab to Guide's route). Many of these options can meander and lead to serious rope drag problems. Bring long slings or aim for one of the more direct variations such as Upper Lip. Another party I was climbing with today decided to bail after dealing with this problem and getting caught in a storm despite being so close to the summit. See my post on the lost and found forum here.

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