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Turner's Flake 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: John Turner
Page Views: 5,002
Submitted By: m-earle on Nov 1, 2006
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Leslie Hamilton on Turners Flake.

Description 

This is the obvious left arching flake just to the left of standard route on the Thin Air Face. Start on a ramp that leads right until it meets the flake. continue up the flake to a two bolt belay at a ledge, just below the belay for the traverse pitch on Thin Air. Either top out via Thin Air, or rappel with double ropes or a 70 meter.


Protection 

Standard rack of cams and nuts, #4 Camalot is very helpful.



Photos of Turner's Flake Slideshow Add Photo
Me on the lower portion of Turner's
Me on the lower portion of Turner's
Hale on the crux thin section up toward the top of the route...
Hale on the crux thin section up toward the top of...
Dave styling the thin crux of Turners...
Dave styling the thin crux of Turners...
Hale leading turners flake...
Hale leading turners flake...
turners flake in the last fall...
turners flake in the last fall...
Hale being eaten by the off-width section haha... just funny
Hale being eaten by the off-width section haha... ...
Comments on Turner's Flake Add Comment
Show which comments
By L. Hamilton
Nov 10, 2006

TCUs or small wires useful for final thin corner, which is excellent climbing.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 15, 2007

If you place your gear deep behind the flake, no big cams are needed... .
The crux comes when you exit the flake to the right and do a little face climbing before heading back left to finish the route....

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 31, 2009

Did this route again today... Man i forgot how fun it was!!! so cool... i did get a little rope drag on it so i was thinking that next time i might climb the first 2 bolts on Freedom then link in to Turners for a "no rope drag" variation...

By Eric Chabot
From: Thetford Ctr, VT
Oct 20, 2013

Awesome route~! linking this with Thin Air and Pine Tree Eliminate made for one of the most fun climbs I've done in a long time. While I wouldn't call this route run-out, it had some spicy moments for sure. I climbed with double ropes and walked some large cams (up to a #4) and rope drag wasn't too bad.

The east's answer to Rye Crisp at city of rocks in ID