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Turn the Page 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: [Nate A, Joey V. 6-1-05]
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 344
Submitted By: Nate A on Jun 1, 2005
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Locate this route by scrambling up the Fender gully, easy 5th class, to a large ledge just down and to climber's right of Femp's belay ledge. Look for 3 bolts that lead to a flared crack begining a little past halfway up the pitch. Run it out to the first bolt, approximately 15 feet of 5.9, which then protects a difficult section leading to bolt #2 and then head slightly left to a horn which takes a sling and a medium stopper. Mantle up on the horn, move right to clip bolt #3, then pull the crux move of the route to get situated in the crack and begin searching for a couple of difficult to place RPs. A couple more difficult moves in the crack get you to better gear and onto a nice belay ledge right underneath the nice 5.8 handcrack on Endless Crack's third pitch.

Choose one of several different existing exits or rap back to the start of the route from a tree with slings just up and left of the ledge.

Note: the "s" rating refers to the runout getting to the first bolt, as a fall would land you right on the belay ledge. The bolt was intentionally placed in this location because there is a natural clipping stance, we wanted to keep the bolt count low and we thought anyone unable to commit to this part of the route would have a really hard time further up the climb.


Bring a set of TCUs or equivalent, set of stoppers and RPs, quickdraws, several runners, and a couple of larger cams for the belay (#2, #3 Camalot).

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By justin dubois
From: Estes Park
Jun 12, 2005

Even though this route was named after a Bob [Segar] song, I'd still recommend it. Nice work, boys!

By comic clown
Jun 13, 2005
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c