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Good Wide Climbing on the far west side of narcolepsy area. Nice cracks, mostly hands with some places a good deal wider. Belay is very awkward to set up. I continued to the top (climb east to attain narcolepsy anchors) and rapped down narcolepsy. This continuation is highly recommended to avoid the walk off to the west. A good crack for the leader trying to break into the grade. It felt a bit soft for a 5.8 to me.
This Route is on the far west end of the Narcolepsy butress and is just west of Dream Slate. You can walk off this route to the west or continue up and east to attain narcolepsy anchors.
Standard rack to #3 camalot. Either build trad anchor on the ledge/flake system at the top of the climb or continue up and east to attain narcolepsy anchors.
turn of the sentry
BETA PHOTO: route without lines
BETA PHOTO: This is the Route....
|By Ryan Goslin|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 20, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Getting off this climb is interesting....dreamslate anchors are probably the best option if you climb 10a. head left when the climb ends and use two draws before the chains. Heading right to narcolepsy lead to some heinous rope drag(if you decide to protect the traverse) so i back tracked to dreamslate. Great route though with sweet jams and locks