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 ADVANCED
The Carnal Caves
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Enticer, The T 
Even Cowpunks Hit The Booze S 
Patriot Games S 
Secret Garden S 
She's A Squirter T,S 
Straight To The Throat T 
Three Old Bolts S 
Turn It On T 

Turn It On 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Flagstaff Oldschool
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring and Fall
Page Views: 119
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on May 12, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Omni present lichen...

Description 

While cleaning and equipping this line (two days effort by Wade and I dropping blocks and bushes) I came to realize that it might be an old school death route called Turn It On, Turn It Up, Turn Me Loose... Though it might not be either, and I will have to consult "the " doctor about it.

At any rate, this long, rather stunning mixed pitch is still a test of nerves in places, and not recommended for the 5.10- leader... However, the first half dishes up moderate romping through some 5.9 stemming and hard to find good gear. At the mid point an awkward move over a large earlobe is protected by a bomber #1 Camalot. After this section there is an optional #.4 because it is still a few moves to the bolt. Once you clip the first of three bolts you are staring down the very enjoyable crux section which is several 5.10 boulder problems stacked on top each other. After the last bolt there is a good rest at a small ledge. A #2 Camalot protects the last awesome set of hand jamming, pocket pulling moves to the anchor ledge.

While it is a long beautiful line, it is a tad on the adventury side. Great rock is intermingled with decomposing plates. With that said however, if you enjoy mud wrestling cracks down in Sedona, then you are going to love this pitch. And almost anyone would enjoy taking the TR run...

Location 

Start by scrambling to a conspicuous belay perch on the foot of the outside wall of the Carnal Caves, down, and to the climbers left of Secret Garden. Scramble into unique orange stem box and you are off!!

Protection 

Small gear for the more moderate first half. I placed several decent wires and a #00, but did not stand around all that much fiddling with the small, irregular cracks before the #1 Camalot at roughly the 45' mark. Anyway, a double set on your smallest stuff wont hurt ya if thats the piece you need. Small/medium wires, and a #2 Camalot for the very top. Long runners!!


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