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Unsorted Routes:

Turkish Revenge 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

   
Type: Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Dave Groth
Season: 3
Page Views: 1,635
Submitted By: James M Schroeder on Oct 12, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Turkish Revenge is route 1 in this photo...

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Description 

Turkish Revenge is the bolted line just left of Zig-zag Crack. According to first ascentionist Dave Groth it is 5.13a if one avoids the crack, and climbs the wall straight on, but if one uses the crack the route becomes 5.12b.


Protection 

Quickdraws - No chains or top anchors



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By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Mar 23, 2007

This route is very hard. A great send by Dave. Have your game face on for this one.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jun 25, 2007

This is basically a slab route compared to the modern sport climbing paradigm. It reminded me a bit of the hard climbing at Smith--technical, weight on your feet moves with small holds, relatively sparsely bolted. Definitely hard.

By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Jul 22, 2007
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c

Wow, the upper half of this route has a lot of moves. I felt the crux is at the top right after the last roof. Anyone know if this has seen many leads? Bolts are quite sparse...pretty bad ass lead if one were to do so. This was my first time on the routes left of Zigzag, seems like they dont see much action for their quality. Cool routes on good stone.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 13, 2007

I think this route may be missing a bolt near the top.

By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Aug 18, 2007
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c

I asked dave about this route. He said back in the day when he put this up the ethic was different, least amount of bolts possible. I think safety was not so big an issue back then. He said retro bolting these routes would not be a bad idea.... to make them a safe fun lead. However with all the buzz about bolts at this place it kinda feels like a bad idea... thoughts anyone?

By Peter Dodge
From: Duluth, MN
Aug 19, 2007

I would like to see these retro bolted. As of right now with the run outs, sketchy bolts and no top anchors, these routes are way to intimidating for me.