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Turkey's Bleak 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Carrie and Bob Robertson (2001)
Page Views: 568
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on May 16, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Bruno replacing the anchors on Turkey's Bleak (1-1...

Description 

Climb the crack up to the odd-looking alcove and prow (easier than it looks). Step around right (crux 1), then up the face to a ledge. Clip the last bolt and do one 5.9-5.10a move (crux move) to reach the anchors. This is a fun route with good rock (except for one small section) and 2 mini-cruxes. Possibly a bit soft for .10a.


Location 

It is 15 feet right of Child's Play at the obvious crack capped by a small alcove about 30 feet up.


Protection 

8 bolts.



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By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 12, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Climbed this at the end of the day, after meeting Bob and Carrie Robertson by chance at the cliff a little earlier. Did not know this was one of their lines they put up, but it was definitely my wife's favorite climb of the day. Thanks, Bob and Carrie!

By BethanyB
Apr 22, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Really enjoyed this route. I thought the crux move was in the middle (moving above the crack). There's a nice ledge to stand on and work out the moves to the anchor, which weren't too hard.

By tony812
Oct 21, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13

WARNING!!!! Climbed this route over the past weekend, and as I was going to the finishing ledge, there was a rather large hold, at least 2'x1' in size, that ALMOST broke off. It was too crowded to throw the piece to the ground. Put a rather large X on the hold. Future climbers, beware this is a very chaosy route.