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Turkey Tail
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For Turkeys Only 
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I Turkey/ Resurrection 
In Search of Unicorns 
Inner Reaches 
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Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch) 
Left Side of the Key 
Live Fire 
Make the Cut 
Piece of Cake 
Quivering Quill 
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Squeeze Chimney 
Turkey in the Straw 
Turkey Turd 
Turkey's Delight 
Whimsical Dreams 
Wild Turkey 
Wudamudafuka (1st pitch) 

Turkey Turd 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Earl Wiggins & Jimmy Dunn?
Page Views: 1,470
Submitted By: Mike Anderson on Jan 23, 2005
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Turkey Turd.


This route is located on Turkey Tail, about 75' right of Whimsical Dreams. Locate the "Turkey Turd", which is a narrow pillar of rock that sticks out from the wall, about 60' off the ground.

Climb either side of that pillar (5.8 or so either way), the left side involves some easy OW while the right side requires stemming on good rock. The crux involves pulling the roof above the "Turkey Turd" pillar. An awkward, series of insecure thin hand jams pulls the roof where the crack widens to perfect hands. Luckily the gear is bomber. Two bolts are reached after about 120'.

You can rap (and TR) with a single 70m rope, or continue to the summit.


The crux section requires finger to hand-sized gear. Depending on which start you use, you may need some pretty wide gear for the start. Save a #2 Camalot for the short section above the roof.

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By kirkadirka
From: Boulder
May 20, 2013

Rope drag can be bad once past the roof, so do your best to runner gear beneath and through the roof.