Turkey Rocks History
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I am interested in learnign more about the history of Turkey Rocks as it is very rich. What I have gleaned so far has been from climbers that were around during the 70's, as I cannot find anything written. I did hear a tale of a beta book that Jim and Earl use to keep stories in. Apparently it was kept at a bar the burned to the ground taking the book with it. |
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Ryan |
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There used to be a new route book at the Bucksnort Saloon in Pine. I'm not sure about it burning down ever but I know it was almost washed away once. I think that book is probably long gone. |
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Peter Gallagher? |
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Pete is still around the springs. Someone at Mountain Chalet might know how to get a message to him. Bryan Becker lives in the area as well. The best written accounts are probably in the guides though. Most of those guys are busy climbing and haven't written much down. |
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There is a memorial plaque on Turkey Perch and another one over by the Leftovers commemorating guys that have passed on. I think I did a search for one of the names and it turned out to be a guy that got killed on his motorcycle when a car hit him. Must have been someone that climbed at Turkey I gather. |
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Tom-O wrote:Ryan Try getting a copy of "For Turkeys Only" by Steve Cheyney and Bob Couchman. 12 pages of historical information chronicled. Let me know if you can't find one I'll hook you up.Agreed. For Turkeys Only is a great book to pick up. Tom- do you think you could hook me up with one? I've seen other people's copies and would love to pick up one of my own. ACR wrote:Try finding "The Brown Book of Lies" and the previously mentioned "For Turkeys Only" and they can help you piece together some info. Be careful though, everyone has their own point of view and multiple versions of history exist for Turkey.I've got a copy of Brown Book of Lies. I bought a copy (because I couldn't remember the name of the book that I wanted, which was For Turkeys Only) and it doesn't seem to have Turkey Rocks in it. Speaking of which- anyone wanna buy that book from me? It's brand new condition, signed by author Peter Hubbel. If you're buying to get a history of the area then it could be a bit helpful as the names are likely original. |
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I started climbing at Turkey Rock in 1970, the year I graduated from high school. I would go up there with Jimmie Dunn, Billy Westbay, Doug Snively, Steve Cheyney and some of the other early Springs' climbers. Earl Wiggins, Pete Gallagher, Steve Hong, and Ed Webster started climbing at Turkey in the mid-1970s. |
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Looking through the archives, here is another photograph taken on that 1980 day when I went up to Turkey Rock with Henry Barber. We had a flat tire on our way back to Colorado Springs from Turkey in Dennis Jackson's Suburu. Here Henry and Dennis change the tire while Bryan Becker tends to the beer stash...some things just don't change! |
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And there you go... Great post Stewart! |
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Thanks all for the info. Stewart I thought about sending you a PM but figured you would post something if you saw it, and figured some others might find the info useful. Glad you did, awesome info and pics! |
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Actually Ryan, most Turkey Rock routes protect pretty damn good with Hexes and Stoppers. If you want to do it, we can probably put together a good '70s cragging outfit for you...white painter's pants (preferably with a denim seat sewed on), a Chouinard rugby shirt, a Forrest swami belt, and a red bandanna for a headband. A pair of EBs would be good too! Get all that together and your old-tyme trad rack and you'll look as sharp as Jimmie Dunn did back in the day... |
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This thread is awesome! I appreciate the stories Stewart. I didn't know that routes were aided in first ascents at Turkey. Man, I can't imagine aiding Turkey Shoot, that p2 crack is soo good! |
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Ryan here's a video of Steve Cheyney talking about the FA of Turkey Shoot (he was there that day): If that link doesn't work, just scroll down the Fixed Pin Publishing page on Facebook to the video posted on February 21st. I was not involved in any of the FAs at Turkey, so Stewart has a much better first hand account of the history there than I do, but I photocopied and photographed most of the pages from the Golden Book of Bullshit about a month ago. Steve Cheyney is also writing an essay about the history there for the second volume of the South Platte guidebook, but if you want to know anything in the meantime, let me know. If I don't know it (and Stewart doesn't either), I can ask Steve. He doesn't have email, but does use the phone. Email me or PM me through this website as I don't visit the forums much.
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I got kicked out one time for swimming in one of the fishing ponds. |
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Jason.... Glad you decided to hop on the thread. Awesome video. Are you close enough to have any idea of when the 2nd volume will be out? |
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Lennie Coyne and I did a few climbs up there in the mid-70s, before we knew much about FA's and keeping track of and naming your climbs (he was 16 then). I remember we snuck in through some private property and Lenny told me the story about some climbers being shot at while climbing. I remember doing at least four climbs, but knew nothing about whether they had been done before or not. That's when Lenny coined (a pun) his famous saying "that looks tenable, do you want to lead it?" |
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Thread Erectus! |
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The first pitch of whimsical dreams, yes there is a second, was full of dirt and grass and had to be gardened first. There was also a small tree at the crux which made a good foot hold, if your short, to reach the high finger locks. |