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This is the main crag in the Turkey Rock area. It has wonderful crack climbing and some scattered face climbing with routes up to 3 pitches in length mostly on its south face. The setting is beautiful, the cracks are plentiful, the difficulties are moderate, and the area is popular. At one point there was an entire guidebooklet devoted to this area with most of the routes on this rock. The granite is known for its coarseness. Taping may be considered for most. The walkoffs are straightforward. Enjoy.
When you approach Turkey Rocks from the campgound, you are walking up behind the formations. The trail goes to the top of the hill, and down towards the front of most of the climbs. At the top of the hill, (Looking downhill and away from the climbs) on the left is Turkey Perch. Down, and to the right is Turkey Rock. Turkey Tail is downhill, and left of Turkey Perch.
24 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Turkey Rock:
Nightime Madness 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Eastern Front 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Second Coming 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 3 pitches
Glen's Pancake 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Stewart's Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 4 pitches
Gobbler's Grunt 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 3 pitches
Jump Start 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
The Fiend 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Southern Comfort 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 3 pitches
Turkey Shoot 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 3 pitches
Direct Hit 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad, 2 pitches, 75'
Brain Cramps 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch
Straw Turkey 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 3 pitches
Satyr's Asshole 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Vanishing Point 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch
Finger Lickin' Good 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Great White Crime 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
In Style, Out of Fashion 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Tryptophane 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Featured Route For Turkey Rock
Finger Lickin' Good 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b CO : South Platte : ... : Turkey Rock
Note: this climb is not to be confused with Finger Lickin' Good at Lumpy. I changed the name from Hubbel's guide to Finger Licking Good (with a "g") to avoid confusion.On the seldom climbed north face of Turkey Rock -- visible from the parking lot -- is a pink crack bisecting the rock, perhaps 50 feet long. On a hot sunny summer day, this shaded route is an excellent destination.Locate the highest tree on the North side. Above it is the crack -- can't miss it. Belay at this tree, getting the...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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