Turkey Neck Direct
This climb is one route left of El Gallito. Alternately, it's the fourth route in from the left. Climb past four bolts in the nice, white, calcified rock to the base of the big, stair-stepped roof. Three bolts and some tricky cruxes get you past the various lips. I put the fifth and sixth bolts close together so you wouldn't come slamming into the vert wall under the roof. Both are clippable on lead.
This had anchors up top but didn't seem to have seen any action -- thanks, whoever put the anchors in.
You **can** climb a bit right of the sixth bolt through that crux, onto the "guano block." Come back left to finish, on the "turkey neck." You can also go direct with good beta.
It is a good, pumpy route at the grade; 7 bolts.
|By Kevin Neilson|
May 5, 2012
This is a good route, but it is harder than it looks from the bottom. The middle section lacks positive holds. At the first roof, I did go a little right to get a ticked sidepull to be able to stand. Getting through the last roof to the turkey neck is the crux. Unfortunately, my only beta is "use your 6'6" wingspan to reach past the terrible slopers and get your fingertips on the turkey neck."