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Turkey Neck Direct 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Kristin Bjornsen
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 487
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Jul 20, 2008

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Turkey Neck Direct 

This climb is one route left of El Gallito. Alternately, it's the fourth route in from the left. Climb past four bolts in the nice, white, calcified rock to the base of the big, stair-stepped roof. Three bolts and some tricky cruxes get you past the various lips. I put the fifth and sixth bolts close together so you wouldn't come slamming into the vert wall under the roof. Both are clippable on lead.

This had anchors up top but didn't seem to have seen any action -- thanks, whoever put the anchors in.

You **can** climb a bit right of the sixth bolt through that crux, onto the "guano block." Come back left to finish, on the "turkey neck." You can also go direct with good beta.

It is a good, pumpy route at the grade; 7 bolts.


Protection 

Bolts.



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By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
May 5, 2012

This is a good route, but it is harder than it looks from the bottom. The middle section lacks positive holds. At the first roof, I did go a little right to get a ticked sidepull to be able to stand. Getting through the last roof to the turkey neck is the crux. Unfortunately, my only beta is "use your 6'6" wingspan to reach past the terrible slopers and get your fingertips on the turkey neck."