Turkey Foot Crack 

I saw a guy on this today and he had to downclimb the last pitch because the anchors are gone. There are a lot of rockfall scars on the face below the climb.

Two weeks ago when doing this climb I found that the stopper anchor at the end of the second pitch was gone, leaving only a slung block tat nest. With some investigation we found that 4 LARGE blocks were just perched there, with the anchors literally sitting on a block with only a small block holding them down. The scary thing is that people have been rapping from here for years! We trundeled the blocks but did not replace the anchor as we discovered an AMAZING belay ( comfy bivy for 1) 20 feet higher than the old anchor and 60m from the ground. A second bolted anchor at this stance would be a vast improvement over the old anchor situation, but we were hoping to contact the FA party before doing anything. It is still possible to continue to the top and walk off the back side if you are in the mood for a grovelfest.

Hi Kevin, I remember thinking those blocks were pretty dubious last time I rapped off them. Maybe they were sufficient for the time being - but i think their days were numbered. Your solution sounds good.

In reply to "Another Estes Park Drunk" - maybe if you sobered up sometime you would know that Kevin has replaced virtually every crappy bolt in the Cathedral Spires over the last few years, and deserves a huge round of applause (and an apology from you).

I have to agree with Andy. Kevin replaced all the bolts on Childhood's End (nearly sixty) single-handedly, I believe. Seems like he's been around plenty long enough to size up what needs to be fixed. Kevin: your efforts are appreciated. AED: fark off.

Mr. Estes Drunk, when was the last time you climbed Turkey Foot Crack? If you have climbed it and rappelled off the second pitch then you used up one of your 9 lives unknowingly. I rappelled off that block several times, but the first time I continued to the top and had to step on the block I knew it could end up being someones last rappel. I hate to pull off blocks and scar the rock, but as I climb in the Spires quite often I feel an obligation to try to keep the place relatively safe. I have replaced several hundred coffin nails in the Platte, but I have only added 2 anchors to existing climbs, both of which were where the existing sling anchor was using a deteriorating block . The route currently has a bolted anchor after the first pitch, why not after the second as well? It seems to me that a camo ring anchor is a lot lower impact than a nest of slings around some stoppers. If anyone has information on how to reach the FA party ( Larry Marquardt and Chris Reveley) I would love to get their opinion on the matter. Thanks.

On Monday, Feb. 13 I installed a temporary, but good anchor at the top of p2. I did not see the new anchor, which was purported to be 20 ft. higher than the old one (maybe didn't look in the right place). Anyway, my anchor is at about the same height as the old one, but to the right. It is slung around good, attached rock. There was another anchor a little lower and further to the right of my anchor. We removed it as it was a little more than sketchy. Feel free to bring one more 8-10 ft piece of webbing or cord to supplement the other 2.

From the anchor Ben and I installed, you can rap 175' to the ground with two 60m ropes. You could also do two raps with one 60m rope, using the bolt anchor atop the first pitch for the second rap.

A bolted rap anchor atop the second pitch would be a welcome addition, if the first ascent party agrees.

In relation to starting this thing-
I just did the lefthand start the other day and found the finger crack fun, but it felt super contrived up top, where you were stemming over to this awesome hand crack whilst scumming a couple of digits into an extremely painful finger crack (waaaah). The opening moves are really cool passing the little bush, but don't ignore the hand crack, cause it feels real good.
Also, for the upper part, 3x #3 Camalots, one new #4/old #3.5 and a couple of #2s worked great for me. Tape is nice.

I lead the far right crack with some rather poor shoes for edging. This compelled me to only use feet in the crack as it began to arch to the left, which was rather strenuous as it weights the hands more. So leave the crummy shoes at home and enjoy yourself.

Sling anchor atop pitch 2 was pretty solid and in good shape as of Feb 09. It is up and right after the hand crack ends.

This was first ascent was soloed by me, as Jim Michael and Chris Reveley can attest. Date uncertain.

Wow Larry, that's impressive. The short little thin crack above the amazing "bivy" ledge must have been exciting, I guess it is called the third pitch.

Thanks Kevin. I've sent a PM regarding the bolts.