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Turkey Foot Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Larry Marquardt
Page Views: 8,627
Submitted By: Joe Keyser on Jan 1, 2001
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Stellar day on Turkey Foot.

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Description 

This route is located on the Sunshine Wall's South Face. This wall is the formation to the left of Cynical Pinnacle when looking from the road. This route is about halfway in the middle of the wide wall. There are three cracks that lead into one, easiest from right to left. If you do the middle, or left route, some RPs will be nice to have. A little bit after the cracks converge, a fist size crack goes up another pitch, or the first two can be combined. A 5.8 goes the rest of the way, or rap from here.


Protection 

A couple extra 3, or 3.5 cams for the fist crack.



Photos of Turkey Foot Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Nate on the lead.
Nate on the lead.
Pitch 2 has new anchors.
Pitch 2 has new anchors.
Higher up.
Higher up.
I climbed this awesome route yesterday.  Make sure you bring plenty of extra 2- 4 size camalots.
I climbed this awesome route yesterday. Make sure...
Wait a minute... I thought the crack was the boss there for a bit??? Sorry Nate, just calling it as I see it.
Wait a minute... I thought the crack was the boss ...
Alison Conrad #2.
Alison Conrad #2.
Climbers on the first pitch.
Climbers on the first pitch.
Alison Conrad, 01/17/09.
Alison Conrad, 01/17/09.
Just past the cruxy pod, after taking a rest on the purple cam, I proceeded to run it out to the anchor.
Just past the cruxy pod, after taking a rest on th...
Alison Conrad #3.
Alison Conrad #3.
Higher up.
Higher up.
All three start options for Turkey Foot.   Easiest on right and hardest on left.  The middle and left crack are harder if you don't use the right crack when it becomes possible to reach it.  The middle crack eventually merges with the right crack, the left goes straight to the anchor.
BETA PHOTO: All three start options for Turkey Foot. Easiest...
Yes! you made it.
Yes! you made it.
Me on the lead.
Me on the lead.
Turkey Foot Variation, Kevin Gillest climber.
Turkey Foot Variation, Kevin Gillest climber.
Comments on Turkey Foot Crack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 28, 2009
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 20, 2005

I saw a guy on this today and he had to downclimb the last pitch because the anchors are gone. There are a lot of rockfall scars on the face below the climb.

By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Nov 21, 2005

Two weeks ago when doing this climb I found that the stopper anchor at the end of the second pitch was gone, leaving only a slung block tat nest. With some investigation we found that 4 LARGE blocks were just perched there, with the anchors literally sitting on a block with only a small block holding them down. The scary thing is that people have been rapping from here for years! We trundeled the blocks but did not replace the anchor as we discovered an AMAZING belay ( comfy bivy for 1) 20 feet higher than the old anchor and 60m from the ground. A second bolted anchor at this stance would be a vast improvement over the old anchor situation, but we were hoping to contact the FA party before doing anything. It is still possible to continue to the top and walk off the back side if you are in the mood for a grovelfest.

By Andy Donson
Nov 22, 2005

Hi Kevin, I remember thinking those blocks were pretty dubious last time I rapped off them. Maybe they were sufficient for the time being - but i think their days were numbered. Your solution sounds good.

In reply to "Another Estes Park Drunk" - maybe if you sobered up sometime you would know that Kevin has replaced virtually every crappy bolt in the Cathedral Spires over the last few years, and deserves a huge round of applause (and an apology from you).

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 22, 2005

I have to agree with Andy. Kevin replaced all the bolts on Childhood's End (nearly sixty) single-handedly, I believe. Seems like he's been around plenty long enough to size up what needs to be fixed. Kevin: your efforts are appreciated. AED: fark off.

By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Nov 22, 2005

Mr. Estes Drunk, when was the last time you climbed Turkey Foot Crack? If you have climbed it and rappelled off the second pitch then you used up one of your 9 lives unknowingly. I rappelled off that block several times, but the first time I continued to the top and had to step on the block I knew it could end up being someones last rappel. I hate to pull off blocks and scar the rock, but as I climb in the Spires quite often I feel an obligation to try to keep the place relatively safe. I have replaced several hundred coffin nails in the Platte, but I have only added 2 anchors to existing climbs, both of which were where the existing sling anchor was using a deteriorating block . The route currently has a bolted anchor after the first pitch, why not after the second as well? It seems to me that a camo ring anchor is a lot lower impact than a nest of slings around some stoppers. If anyone has information on how to reach the FA party ( Larry Marquardt and Chris Reveley) I would love to get their opinion on the matter. Thanks.

By Ben F
From: Benfield, Kolorado
Feb 16, 2006

On Monday, Feb. 13 I installed a temporary, but good anchor at the top of p2. I did not see the new anchor, which was purported to be 20 ft. higher than the old one (maybe didn't look in the right place). Anyway, my anchor is at about the same height as the old one, but to the right. It is slung around good, attached rock. There was another anchor a little lower and further to the right of my anchor. We removed it as it was a little more than sketchy. Feel free to bring one more 8-10 ft piece of webbing or cord to supplement the other 2.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 16, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

From the anchor Ben and I installed, you can rap 175' to the ground with two 60m ropes. You could also do two raps with one 60m rope, using the bolt anchor atop the first pitch for the second rap.

A bolted rap anchor atop the second pitch would be a welcome addition, if the first ascent party agrees.

By MikeS
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 4, 2007

In relation to starting this thing-
I just did the lefthand start the other day and found the finger crack fun, but it felt super contrived up top, where you were stemming over to this awesome hand crack whilst scumming a couple of digits into an extremely painful finger crack (waaaah). The opening moves are really cool passing the little bush, but don't ignore the hand crack, cause it feels real good.
Also, for the upper part, 3x #3 Camalots, one new #4/old #3.5 and a couple of #2s worked great for me. Tape is nice.

By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Aug 3, 2008

I lead the far right crack with some rather poor shoes for edging. This compelled me to only use feet in the crack as it began to arch to the left, which was rather strenuous as it weights the hands more. So leave the crummy shoes at home and enjoy yourself.

By Greg D
From: Here
Feb 8, 2009

Sling anchor atop pitch 2 was pretty solid and in good shape as of Feb 09. It is up and right after the hand crack ends.

By Larry Marquardt
Aug 28, 2009

This was first ascent was soloed by me, as Jim Michael and Chris Reveley can attest. Date uncertain.

By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Aug 28, 2009

Wow Larry, that's impressive. The short little thin crack above the amazing "bivy" ledge must have been exciting, I guess it is called the third pitch.

By Larry Marquardt
Aug 28, 2009

Thanks Kevin. I've sent a PM regarding the bolts.