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 ADVANCED
The Punchbowl
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bam S 
Blue Route 1 S 
Blue Route 2 S 
Corporate Greed S 
Drive By Shooting S 
Lugie Head S 
Momentary Lack of Resin S 
Smoke on the Water S 
Snipe Hunter S 
Spider Evictor S 
Super Barnacle S 
Turds in the Punchbowl S 
Unknown (Right Arch of Cave) S 

Turds in the Punchbowl 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 671
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jul 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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The difficult opening sequence of Turds.

Description 

Turds in the Punchbowl climbs the tan-colored buttress to the right of Drive By Shooting. Despite its proximity to its neightobr, the rock here is not nearly as good as the stone to the left. There are pockets of excellent limestone, but there is also a good bit of spooky choss.

The line begins with a difficult, thrutchy crux on shattered rock, to get established in the low corner. Easy moves up the steepening corner lead to a nice stance right on the prow. The desparate crux follows, moving over the slight bulge via rounded sidepulls. The juggy horizontal break above is a great relief. Move up easier ledges on brown rock to the poor anchor.


Location 

Turds is the next bolted line right of Drive By Shooting. Currently this is the third route right of the bolted dihedral.

From L->R:
Corporate Greed, 5.9, bolted dihedral.
Snipe Hunter, 12c, new route.
Drive By Shooting, 11d.
Turds in the Punchbowl, "12a".


Protection 

Bolts. Stick clip highly recommended for the difficult start on poor rock. The anchor is two Metolius Rap Hangers. Four screwlinks or two screlinks & some chain would really improve the situation at the top.



Photos of Turds in the Punchbowl Slideshow Add Photo
Finishing up the harder-than-it-looks shallow corner.  The business lurks higher.
Finishing up the harder-than-it-looks shallow corn...
Cruxin'.
Cruxin'.
Comments on Turds in the Punchbowl Add Comment
Show which comments
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Aug 10, 2009

I'm told this is 12a. This was the hardest 12a I've done in a long time.

By DJ RYNO
From: chatfield lake ,co
Aug 1, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Got on this last weekend, I feel it's a one move wonder for a crux, which is technical-funky and a little show stopperish.