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Beer Walls
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Pat Tricks T 
Pats' Blue Ribbon S 
Pegasus T 
Radioactive T 
Rockaholic T 
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Tequila Mockingbird T,TR 
Turbocharge T 
Wandering Lunatic S 


YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chuck Turner, Alan Jolley, and Mark Meschinelli, 8/82
Page Views: 2,294
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Nov 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Brainy, but that's positively my bum on Turbocharg...


A stout, fingery crux off the deck and an exquisite crack system highlight this hidden Adirondack gem.

Turbocharge is a great way to safely break into Adirondack 5.10s. It offers well-protected crux moves in the first 15 feet, and moderate crack climbing above to a dead tree and 2-bolt anchor to the left.


About midway down the Lower Beer Walls is a clean section of cliff. This is the Pegasus Wall. To the left about 100 feet is a low roof split by a tasty finger crack--this is the start of Turbocharge.


Bring a good selection of small to medium cams, plus a few red and yellow Camalots for the crack system above.

Photos of Turbocharge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: rocking up past the crux on turbocharge
rocking up past the crux on turbocharge
Rock Climbing Photo: checking the gear situation out, great belayer giv...
checking the gear situation out, great belayer giv...

Comments on Turbocharge Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 11, 2015
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Nov 26, 2007

Thanks for the photo documentation, Patrick...the more pics the merrier!
By Mark Trotta
From: Latham, NY
Apr 6, 2010

Sent this over the weekend. tricky start but well protected. The rest is about 5.8/5.9 but there are some run out sections, especially coming off the hanging Belay (if you do both pitches, the sketchy tree anchor is replaced by a gear anchor after making a GREAT gunks move around a roof/dihedral).
By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
May 10, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I'm not sure what all the hubub is about this route? 4 stars?? I guess that subjectivity is what makes climbing unique. I thought the crux was awkward, not particularly enjoyable or satisfying. Then after you pull that crappy move, the rest is very anti-climactic. And, it was not well protected. There's gear down low, but its off to the side, allowing for an unpleasant swing that may keep you off the ground.

If you want to break into the 5.10 grade walk over and climb Blacksmith. It is far superior, with the crux moves bolt proteced with clean falls well off the ground.
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jul 5, 2010

Hey Nick, I think ones enjoyment of this route is highly dependent on how they hit the crux. One can make it through and still do some awkward moves, but if you do it right it is a very enjoyable climb. As for breaking into 5.10, this climb has gear at your waist for the crux move, and is fairly secure climbing. Blacksmith on the other hand, has some hard insecure moves above small gear between those bolts, I certainly wouldn't consider that route a good intro to 5.10. myself.
By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Jul 9, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Okay, so I climbed this route again, and guess what. It was really fun and well protected. I approached the crux from the opposite side as I originally did the first time I climbed it, and it protected well and felt smooth and satisfying. So I take back everything I said in my earlier review, and sincerely apologize to the entire adirondack climbing community, and anyone else who loves that climb, who I may have offended by that scathing comment .
By Devin Krevetski
From: West Woodstock, VT
Oct 1, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I found it awkward to get gear in to protect the crux.
By Jaysen Henderson
From: Bronx NY
May 30, 2011

great route, just make sure you bring up the yellow tcu for the pot off the deck and it helped miles to have the blue #9 bd stopper on a draw so you can pop it in during the crux to make it safe. well rounded route between difficulty off the deck then a mental crux at the top. there's small wires up there if you take you're time to look around.
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Aug 21, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

One move off the ground (5.8+?) and then pleasant easier climbing to a dying (yikes!) cedar tree anchor. Gear for the crux is a no-brainer, a monkey could protect this thing.
By ddriver
From: SLC
Sep 27, 2011

Went to the tree and it sounded much too hollow and soft for my liking, so I downclimbed and did the leftward traverse through the roof to make it into a 2-pitcher. This needs some anchor work for it to be a safe one-pitch option.
By Drake Pregnall
From: Morehead, KY
May 22, 2012

There is a two bolt anchor at the top of the first pitch of this climb as late as this past spring.
By Eric G.
From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Sep 3, 2012

Fun and safe. Yellow alien very nice for the crux.
By Dave Schultz
From: Saratoga Springs, New York
Oct 11, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Someone else's photo before the block came off.
Someone else's photo before the block came off.

The red circle shows the block that came off today (10/11/15). The blue arrow shows about where my cam was.

The block looked relatively attached, except for the obvious traverse finger rail. I placed a cam underneath at the base against the back wall where it appeared to be sound. After pulling around and onto the face I got into an awkward position and came off onto the cam behind the block. The block came off, narrowly missing me en route to the ground where my belayer was able to duck under the initial overhand to avoid it. It was at least two microwave-sized blocks. There were wasps and lady-bugs where the block residing, indicating that the entire thing was fairly detached.

I'm not 100% sure that this was on route en route to the first belay (if you were climbing both pitches), but it seemed to be the best option. Without that block (and finger traverse) the difficulty has likely changed. I re-climbed the route to the double-rap-bolt and was lowered.

I inspect my gear placements like everyone else, and apparently this one seemed okay to me. I'm not sure if I'm the only one to ever put a piece there, or the only one to ever fall on it. Regardless, I'm glad the block feel today with me on the route and without any injuries rather than someone else who may not have been as lucky.

Whoever heads there and is familiar with the route should comment on the former block's status and if that was part of the route, and what the route's current difficulty is in moving across to the first belay if doing both pitches.

Rock Climbing Photo: My picture from today (10/11/15).
My picture from today (10/11/15).

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