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Turbocharge T 
Wandering Lunatic S 

Turbocharge 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chuck Turner, Alan Jolley, and Mark Meschinelli, 8/82
Page Views: 1,875
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Nov 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Brainy, but that's positively my bum on Turbocharg...

Description 

A stout, fingery crux off the deck and an exquisite crack system highlight this hidden Adirondack gem.

Turbocharge is a great way to safely break into Adirondack 5.10s. It offers well-protected crux moves in the first 15 feet, and moderate crack climbing above to a dead tree and 2-bolt anchor to the left.


Location 

About midway down the Lower Beer Walls is a clean section of cliff. This is the Pegasus Wall. To the left about 100 feet is a low roof split by a tasty finger crack--this is the start of Turbocharge.


Protection 

Bring a good selection of small to medium cams, plus a few red and yellow Camalots for the crack system above.



Photos of Turbocharge Slideshow Add Photo
rocking up past the crux on turbocharge
rocking up past the crux on turbocharge
checking the gear situation out, great belayer giving a spot.
checking the gear situation out, great belayer giv...
Comments on Turbocharge Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 3, 2012
By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Nov 26, 2007

Thanks for the photo documentation, Patrick...the more pics the merrier!

By Mark Trotta
From: Latham, NY
Apr 6, 2010

Sent this over the weekend. tricky start but well protected. The rest is about 5.8/5.9 but there are some run out sections, especially coming off the hanging Belay (if you do both pitches, the sketchy tree anchor is replaced by a gear anchor after making a GREAT gunks move around a roof/dihedral).

By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
May 10, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I'm not sure what all the hubub is about this route? 4 stars?? I guess that subjectivity is what makes climbing unique. I thought the crux was awkward, not particularly enjoyable or satisfying. Then after you pull that crappy move, the rest is very anti-climactic. And, it was not well protected. There's gear down low, but its off to the side, allowing for an unpleasant swing that may keep you off the ground.

If you want to break into the 5.10 grade walk over and climb Blacksmith. It is far superior, with the crux moves bolt proteced with clean falls well off the ground.

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jul 5, 2010

Hey Nick, I think ones enjoyment of this route is highly dependent on how they hit the crux. One can make it through and still do some awkward moves, but if you do it right it is a very enjoyable climb. As for breaking into 5.10, this climb has gear at your waist for the crux move, and is fairly secure climbing. Blacksmith on the other hand, has some hard insecure moves above small gear between those bolts, I certainly wouldn't consider that route a good intro to 5.10. myself.

By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Jul 9, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Okay, so I climbed this route again, and guess what. It was really fun and well protected. I approached the crux from the opposite side as I originally did the first time I climbed it, and it protected well and felt smooth and satisfying. So I take back everything I said in my earlier review, and sincerely apologize to the entire adirondack climbing community, and anyone else who loves that climb, who I may have offended by that scathing comment .

By Devin Krevetski
From: West Woodstock, VT
Oct 1, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I found it awkward to get gear in to protect the crux.

By Jaysen Henderson
From: White Plains, New York
May 30, 2011

great route, just make sure you bring up the yellow tcu for the pot off the deck and it helped miles to have the blue #9 bd stopper on a draw so you can pop it in during the crux to make it safe. well rounded route between difficulty off the deck then a mental crux at the top. there's small wires up there if you take you're time to look around.

By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Aug 21, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

One move off the ground (5.8+?) and then pleasant easier climbing to a dying (yikes!) cedar tree anchor. Gear for the crux is a no-brainer, a monkey could protect this thing.

By ddriver
From: SLC
Sep 27, 2011

Went to the tree and it sounded much too hollow and soft for my liking, so I downclimbed and did the leftward traverse through the roof to make it into a 2-pitcher. This needs some anchor work for it to be a safe one-pitch option.

By Drake Pregnall
From: Morehead, KY
May 22, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

There is a two bolt anchor at the top of the first pitch of this climb as late as this past spring.

By Eric G.
Sep 3, 2012

Fun and safe. Yellow alien very nice for the crux.