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Brainy, but that's positively my bum on Turbocharg...
A stout, fingery crux off the deck and an exquisite crack system highlight this hidden Adirondack gem.
Turbocharge is a great way to safely break into Adirondack 5.10s. It offers well-protected crux moves in the first 15 feet, and moderate crack climbing above to a dead tree and 2-bolt anchor to the left.
About midway down the Lower Beer Walls is a clean section of cliff. This is the Pegasus Wall. To the left about 100 feet is a low roof split by a tasty finger crack--this is the start of Turbocharge.
Bring a good selection of small to medium cams, plus a few red and yellow Camalots for the crack system above.
rocking up past the crux on turbocharge
checking the gear situation out, great belayer giv...
|By Chris Duca|
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Nov 26, 2007
Thanks for the photo documentation, Patrick...the more pics the merrier!
|By Mark Trotta|
From: Latham, NY
Apr 6, 2010
Sent this over the weekend. tricky start but well protected. The rest is about 5.8/5.9 but there are some run out sections, especially coming off the hanging Belay (if you do both pitches, the sketchy tree anchor is replaced by a gear anchor after making a GREAT gunks move around a roof/dihedral).
|By Nick Weinberg|
From: Albany, NY
May 10, 2010
I'm not sure what all the hubub is about this route? 4 stars?? I guess that subjectivity is what makes climbing unique. I thought the crux was awkward, not particularly enjoyable or satisfying. Then after you pull that crappy move, the rest is very anti-climactic. And, it was not well protected. There's gear down low, but its off to the side, allowing for an unpleasant swing that may keep you off the ground.
If you want to break into the 5.10 grade walk over and climb Blacksmith. It is far superior, with the crux moves bolt proteced with clean falls well off the ground.
|By E thatcher|
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jul 5, 2010
Hey Nick, I think ones enjoyment of this route is highly dependent on how they hit the crux. One can make it through and still do some awkward moves, but if you do it right it is a very enjoyable climb. As for breaking into 5.10, this climb has gear at your waist for the crux move, and is fairly secure climbing. Blacksmith on the other hand, has some hard insecure moves above small gear between those bolts, I certainly wouldn't consider that route a good intro to 5.10. myself.
|By Nick Weinberg|
From: Albany, NY
Jul 9, 2010
Okay, so I climbed this route again, and guess what. It was really fun and well protected. I approached the crux from the opposite side as I originally did the first time I climbed it, and it protected well and felt smooth and satisfying. So I take back everything I said in my earlier review, and sincerely apologize to the entire adirondack climbing community, and anyone else who loves that climb, who I may have offended by that scathing comment .
From: West Woodstock, VT
Oct 1, 2010
I found it awkward to get gear in to protect the crux.
|By Jaysen Henderson|
May 30, 2011
great route, just make sure you bring up the yellow tcu for the pot off the deck and it helped miles to have the blue #9 bd stopper on a draw so you can pop it in during the crux to make it safe. well rounded route between difficulty off the deck then a mental crux at the top. there's small wires up there if you take you're time to look around.
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Aug 21, 2011
One move off the ground (5.8+?) and then pleasant easier climbing to a dying (yikes!) cedar tree anchor. Gear for the crux is a no-brainer, a monkey could protect this thing.
Sep 27, 2011
Went to the tree and it sounded much too hollow and soft for my liking, so I downclimbed and did the leftward traverse through the roof to make it into a 2-pitcher. This needs some anchor work for it to be a safe one-pitch option.
|By Drake Pregnall|
From: Lake Placid, NY
May 22, 2012
There is a two bolt anchor at the top of the first pitch of this climb as late as this past spring.
|By Eric G.|
From: Albany NY
Sep 3, 2012
Fun and safe. Yellow alien very nice for the crux.