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 ADVANCED
Porcelain Wall
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Problem 1 
Problem 2 
Problem 3 
problem 4 
Project 
Thin Crack 
Turbo Sexaphonic Delight 

Turbo Sexaphonic Delight 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V7+ Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Eric B.
Page Views: 930
Submitted By: Remo on Jul 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Start on problem 3 and throw out left to small slopey crimp from good side-pull.(See Eric's beta bellow),and Top-out. It helps to be a bit taller for this one.

Location 

Variation left of Problem 3

Protection 

Pads and Spotters


Comments on Turbo Sexaphonic Delight Add Comment
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By EB
From: Winona
Jul 24, 2007

actually from the sloper move left to a good incut and up from their. we called it turbo sexaphonic delight.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jul 30, 2007

Name changed Eric, thanks man, and its good to hear from you. Shoot me an email and let me know whats new.
By EB
From: Winona
Nov 4, 2010

I find it interesting that this got down graded even though it has yet to see a second ascent; its been 6+ years since the FA. I know some who have climbed the straight up problem which Dave G. Or Kevin H. sent before my time, but the TSD proper is still unrepeated. If I'm wrong please let me know- I thought the V8 grade was a bit sandy from the beginning!
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Nov 4, 2010

Hey Eric, I changed the grade. Sorry I thought you told me it was a 7 when you did it. I've come close to finishing her off, but I guess I need to make another trip up there soon. :)
By EB
From: Winona
Nov 4, 2010

It doesn't really matter, what matters is the the new problems going up there- super good. They remind me of problems out west where tall is normal. the house boulders and the jesus boulder(which has a super sick looking direct line:V9 maybe harder) alone are worth the trip. Lots of new projects! I think you need to come back to your old stomping grounds soon for a sesh. Look me up!