Mountain Project: Climbing Yosemite National Park

Tuolumne Meadows is the high country climbing area of Yosemite National Park. The region is highlighted by many beautiful granite domes which offer the ultimate in knob and slab climbing. There are also classic non-dome formations like Cathedral Peak (first ascent by John Muir in the 1800's) and the Matthes Crest which are very popular with climbers. Tuolumne Meadows is a beautiful, serene place without many of the tourist popularity issues plaguing Yosemite Valley these days. The usual Tuolumne "season" for climbing runs from May through mid-Fall or so.

Getting There

Tuolumne Meadows is accessed via highway 120, either from the west or via Tioga Pass from the east. The Tioga Pass road is generally closed (snowfall) from fall through mid to late May or so (sometimes later, depending on the snow).

Weather

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tuolumne Meadows:

West Ridge, Mount Conness 5.6 Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade IV Mt. Conness

Southeast Buttress 5.6 Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 700 feet, Grade II Cathedral Peak

Tenaya, Matthes, Cathedral Traverse 5.7 Trad, 7500 feet, Grade IV Tenaya Peak

Hobbit Book 5.7 Trad, 4 pitches Mariuolumne Dome : Main Wall

Matthes Crest Traverse - South to North 5.7 Trad, Alpine, 2500 feet, Grade IV Matthes Crest

South Crack 5.8 R Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600 feet Stately Pleasure Dome

On the Lamb 5.9 Trad, 4 pitches Lamb Dome

Regular Route 5.9 Trad, 12 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III Fairview Dome

West Crack 5.9 Trad, 5 pitches DAFF Dome

Crescent Arch 5.9+ Trad, 6 pitches DAFF Dome

Third Pillar (Regular Route) 5.10- Trad, 5 pitches Mt. Dana & the Dana Plateau

Ciebola 5.10b PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 220 feet Medlicott Dome : Medlicott Dome, Right

Bombs over Tokyo (1st pitch) 5.10c Trad, 80 feet DAFF Dome

Lucky Streaks 5.10c/d Trad, 6 pitches, 650 feet Fairview Dome

OZ 5.10d Trad, 5 pitches Drug Dome

Handbook 5.11a Trad, 2 pitches, 240 feet Whizz Domes : North Whizz Dome

The Speed of Life 5.11b Trad, 2 pitches, 265 feet Ellery Bowl

Blues Riff 5.11b/c Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet Phobos/Diemos Cliff

Goldfinger 5.12a Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet Phobos/Diemos Cliff

Electric Africa 5.12c Trad, Sport, 80 feet Pywiak Dome

Featured Route For Tuolumne Meadows

Going through the thin flaring jams up to the intermediate belay. I pumped out and fell on lead, but it is a beautiful climb.

Handbook 5.11a CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : North Whizz Dome

P1. I would have to disagree with the topo as far as where the crux is. I felt the true crux was at about 20 feet with its flared thin hands, rattly fingies and polished layback. Its a little hard/pumpy to pro. Skip the obvious bolted anchor (its a good shake-out) and continue through a second crux of 10+ and cool stemming and finger locks. (These ratings apply to 6' male...Switch the crux sections around if you are shorter and have small hands). At the top of the corner/roof, make a short, cool...[more] Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Tuolumne Meadows

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Runout friction climbing is the name of the game!	BETA PHOTO: Echo Peaks	Rogers & Electra Peaks to the left of Mt Lyell Gla...
Tuolumne River. Photo by Blitzo.	Watch out for pterodacyls! Photo by Blitzo.	Dozier Dome area. Photo by Blitzo.
Pywiack, Medlicott and Dozier Domes. Photo by Blit...	Looking west from "Hobbit Book". Photo by Blitzo.	Tuolumne. Photo by Blitzo.
First snow of the season-MT Gibbs. Photo by Blitzo...	Pothole Dome. Photo by Blitzo.	Bonjour mademoiselle, es que vous grimper?
Bouldering at The Knobs. Photo by Blitzo.	Bouldering near Mountaineers Dome. Photo by Blitzo...	Rick Cashner bouldering at the Knobs. Photo by Bli...
Another unpredictable spring day going to the Mead...	The view reaches The Valley high on the West Ridge...	DAFF and Fairview. Photo by Blitzo.
The wintry meadows from above, with Fairview and t...	A SW across the Meadows toward Yosemite Valley. H...	Bouldering in the vastness of Tuolumne. Photo by B...
Cottage Dome approach, with Fairview in the backgr...	Bouldering on Dog dome	Sunset on Tenaya Lake
Sascha Madrid bouldering at the Knobs	Bouldering at the Knobs	Panorama from the top of Hobbit Book (Mariuolumne ...
Jammin' @ Tuolumne Meadows. Photo by Blitzo.	Tuolumne high country, with the Valley beyond. Ju...	Tuolumne Meadows
Moonrise and Sunset in the High Country	Playing around with the camera on Lembert dome	Hanging out on a ledge on the Regular route
The Meadows	On top of Lembert dome	Tuolumne meadows
A cool boulder at the base of the Drug dome	Cloud's Rest	Beautiful Tenaya Lake, 2002 or so.
Tenaya Lake	Daff Dome	NW Books
Jeremy Freeman on 'Space Tits', Tenaya Canyon.	Cathedral from Lembert Dome	Ice on Ellery Lake, around Memorial day, 2009
Tenaya Lake reflection	knobby boulder	Tenaya Lake, Stately Pleasure dome
Daff Dome, Conness	Soda Springs	Rainwater cascades down Cloud's Rest during a summ...
Evening light on water in meadows	View from near Olmsted Point	View from Olmsted Point toward cloud's Rest
BETA PHOTO: Tuolumne panoramic	Tenaya Lake, Sept 09. Simply amazing.	Tenaya Lake from further up the road, September 20...
Tenaya Lake at Sunset	sunset in the Meadows	Cathedral Peak at sunrise.
Tenaya Canyon	Tuolumne life near the Tuolumne Meadows Lodge.	Sunset from the top of Mariuolumne Dome after an e...
A rare TM sighting	Tuolumne Meadows	Toulumne Meadows Campground
Cathedral & Eichorn's Pinnacle to the left, Echo C...	Tenaya Lake	Afternoon hail storm on top of Tenaya
As seen out the window of a Twin Otter aircraft ca...	Large bear scat by the camprground

Comments on Tuolumne Meadows

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By Isaac T.
From: Pasadena, CA
Apr 4, 2007

Tuolumne Info is chocked full of information such as road conditions as well as some very detailed route beta (you have to become a memember first though) it is also a forum. If you are visiting from far away it would probably be good to check out the sight for any information.

By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
May 6, 2011

Could a Tuolumne regular give me their take on when the mosquitos die down. I'm going to be there the last week of July. What are your mosquito predictions for that time?

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 6, 2011

In my experience, mid August and later is when they seem to have a lot of their last hurrahs. With all the snow we had this year, make sure you come well armed in July!

By drmartindell
From: Homer, Ak
Apr 17, 2012

How likely is it to roll into town solo (early august) and stumble upon a climbing partner? Camping info, etc would be appreciated. Thanks!

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Tuolumne Meadows

Description

Getting There

Weather

The Classics